Saturday, 27 April 2019
Washington DC, USA
Walking along Pennnsylvania Avenue mid morning towards the US Capitol, there are many large government buildings. It’s like London but the buildings are bigger. Much bigger. And more spaced apart.
The only monstrosity amongst the ornate architecture is the hideous concrete FBI Headquarters. Dreadful building.
The mile or so walk is rewarded by the very impressive US Capitol standing proud on the hill overlooking the National Mall. Its brilliant white stonework is beautifully set against the deepest, bluest sky I’ve seen in years.
A magnificent day.
Hordes of tourists traipse through the guided tour of the Capitol and an example, once again, of over tourism. Nevertheless, it’s interesting to see the massive and very impressive central Rotunda. Construction of the main Capitol building began in 1793 and was completed in 1800.
Then.
And I didn’t know this.
The British came in 1814 and burned it down.
So much for the Special Relationship.
As part of the reconstruction, the Rotunda we see today was built between 1818 and 1824 with the Capitol dome above being built 1857 to 1866. Around the top of the Rotunda is a depiction of American history from its discovery by Columbus in 1492 through to the Wright Brothers. Adjacent the Rotunda is the Statutary Hall, where all the states have statues of prominent Americans from that state. Beneath the Rotunda is the Crypt, which was intended to house the coffin of George Washington, until his family buried him elsewhere, in accordance with his will. The central point has a stone star laid into the marble. This being the point from where all distances are measured from in Washington DC.
A number of tunnels link various buildings and it’s a short walk underground to the National Library of Congress Jefferson Building. Once again, architecturally stunning both inside and out. Looking at the interior, you could almost be in some very expensive hotel in Venice. It’s that ornate with painted frescoes adorning the walls. Housing amongst other things the Jefferson Library, the Gutenberg Bible (the first to be produced by the Gutenberg Press in Germany) and the first map dating back to the 16th century to show the name ‘America’. Oh. And Sir Francis Drake’s map from 1589 depicting his foray to he New World. The whole place is dripping in history.
The piece de resistance though is the Main Reading Room. Wow. Another impressive domed rotunda. Sadly, the tourist viewing point is from behind a protective glass window which is no good for taking photographs due to the reflections.
However.
Dear reader.
Just because you are a bit special.
A plan is hatched.
Just for a better photo.
Had been told about an hour earlier that anyone can join the library and access the reading rooms. This little nugget of information is lurking in the deepest recesses of my brain as I’m struggling to get a decent photo from the windowed viewing gallery trying to avoid reflections.
So.
Passport in hand, make my way into the basement and register to join. A five minute process of filling in a form, handing over passport, photograph taken and new library card printed.
Voila.
Easy peasy. I’m now able to access all the various reading rooms.
Only want to the go in the Main Reading Room for a photo but as soon as I enter, see many signs saying, ‘NO PHOTOS!’ and ‘SILENCE’.
Need a book to make it look like I’ve a reason to be there.
Enter the Main Reading Room.
It’s deathly quiet.
Like a morgue.
However.
The deathly silence is punctuated by my boot emitting a creaking sound.
You see, dear reader, when tying laces this morning I must have tied the lace a bit too tight against a bit of leather on my left boot.
Every time I take a footstep.
There’s a ‘creeaak’.
And not just a quiet ‘creeaak’. It’s rather loud and obtrusive.
And amplified by the ambient silence.
So there I am. Walking about.
Creeaak.
Pause.
Creeaak.
Pause.
Creeaak.
And of course, trying to walk slower only accentuates the noise.
Rather embarrassing. I have to say.
Around the perimeter walls are alcoves full of bookshelves. In the centre of the reading room is a large wooden librarians’ desk.
Eventually find a book on English folklore. Of all things.
Now I need to get to a reading desk which is hidden from view from the librarian and doesn’t have too many neighbours, so I can take an illicit photograph of the Main Reading Room.
Just doing this for you, dear reader, don’t forget the things I do for you.
There’s a row of desks the other side of the room that looks suitable.
Off I go.
Book in hand.
Looking academic.
Creeaak.
Pause.
Creeaak.
Pause.
Creeaak.
Pause.
Quiet as a church mouse I am not.
Reading desk is perfect. Back row. No neighbours and librarian has her back to me.
This is covert stuff readers.
As I’m settling in, a young lad enters the reading room and starts taking photographs from the entrance lobby.
Oh oh.
He’s been spotted.
Called over.
And admonished by the librarian.
Looks like she’s making him delete the photos from his phone.
He’s clearly not as subtle as me.
Can do subtle when I want to.
After she’s sorted him out, she disappears behind a screen.
Now’s my chance.
Few photos taken, the results of which are below. Far better than trying to take through reflective glass.
Job done. Book is deposited at the desk and off I creak.
Still a glorious blue sky as I walk down the Mall. Either side has an amazing array of Smithsonian Museums. More time is definitely required in Washington DC. The roads bisecting the Mall are full of food vans flogging crap food. Parked up nose to tail, each is blaring out its particular jingle in a cacophony of sound.
Half way down the Mall is the Washington Monument, the very tall obelisk you will no doubt have seen in films and on the news. This forms the central point of the long Capitol to Lincoln Memorial Mall, teeing off to the White House. Sadly, it’s closed for lift repairs but I imagine the views from the top are absolutely stunning, for you can go inside it.
As I’m crossing the road, hear a lot of sirens and see blue flashing lights coming out of the White House up the road.
It’s the Presidential Motorcade.
The advance motorbike outriders are taking no prisoners and telling cars to move over and stop, along with a middle aged woman on her bike, who hardly seems a security threat. They zoom by in a flash. Later find out it was President Trump and the Japanese Prime Minister going for a game of golf.
Continue along the Mall to the other end. It culminates at the Lincoln Memorial. Yet another impressive structure and built 1914 to 1920. Like some Greek Temple it stands high up with the statue of Lincoln inside gazing out down the Mall. As if keeping an eye on things. Very impressive structure and very impressive views.
Finally arrive at the White House. Had been to see it from the south side last night and it’s surprisingly far away. At Lafayette Square though, you’re a lot nearer and it’s a better photo opportunity. Secret Service on the roof with binoculars spying on everyone down here.
The footpath on the southern side is closed at the moment and a group of Americans tell me they’ve closed it as Marine One helicopter is about to take off with the President Trump on board. Which we see depart a few minutes later.
Have thoroughly enjoyed Washington. So much to see and do. Repeat visit required.
Tonight’s entertainment is an evening with Professor Brian Cox. The astrophysicist. I’d been to see him at Wembley Arena a couple of years ago. Then, 10,000 people had turned up on a Friday night to listen to a talk on cosmology. Tonight, the 2,000 seat theatre is pretty much sold out. Once again, it’s an excellent evening with stunning photographs and a brilliant explanation of blackholes, event horizons and singularity.
However.
The seats aren’t the most comfortable. Especially as have a tall obese America in front of me blocking my view (now I know how people feel who sit behind me normally) and an obese American next to me spilling over.
During the interval, having been fleeced and still reeling from paying $12 for a can of Stella, spot some free standing chairs at the back of the theatre with prime view, set aside for accompanying wheelchair users. Ask the very nice middle aged female attendant if, because of my height and long legs, I could possibly sit in one of the free standing chairs. I am politeness personified.
With the poshest English accent I can muster.
Americans go crazy for that.
She’s smitten.
We have a little laugh and joke.
I’m on to a winner here. I can feel it.
She fully understands my plight.
She says, “Because I like you, you can sit here.”
Taurean charm, you see.
And points to a red velvet covered chair with wooden armrests. The sort of chair you might put a VIP. It stands all on its own, with bags of space and loads of leg room. Cordoned off from everything else with a thick red velvet rope on brass stands. The sort you might find in a posh nightclub to separate the riff raff from the VIPs.
It’s very me.
Thank her profusely.
I’m feeling special.
Yeah. I know.
Special needs.
It’s a great evening.
Entertaining. Informative. Funny.
Bit like this blog really.
