35. A toast to Manoel

Saturday, 26 January 2019

Belo Horizonte, Brasil

Miss Brasil and I were meant to be going to Inhotim today, one of South America’s largest outdoor contemporary arts centres and gardens but, and you may have seen this in the media at home, a large dam collapsed nearby yesterday, killing approximately 360 people, which has led to a massive landslide. And I mean massive. The area is best avoided to let the rescue mission crack on.

Having started this trip at the bottom of the world, I now find myself at the Top of the World. A viewpoint, which is surprisingly 5,000ft above sea level. Even though there is low cloud and rain on the horizon, the views are magnificent. Along the ridge is a paragliding school but as the wind is too strong, there’s no flying today.

Belo Horizonte (which means beautiful horizon – and it is) is in the state of Minas Gerais, which is well known for its cheese, cachaca and mines. Apparently, the locals are quite tall as there was an English influx in the 18/19^th centuries to start up the mines. Gold, diamonds and iron are the key ones and Minas Gerais actually means General Mines. You see. You’ve learnt something today. The whole area is surprisingly mountainous.

By chance, we discover that a brand new restaurant has opened up at the Top of the World. As it’s time for lunch, what better place to stay. The view is magnificent. The company is superb. The food is delicious. Incredibly happy.

Waiter explains that you can actually see the Brumadinho dam collapse from where we’re sitting. On the horizon is a massive, muddy brown scar in the green tropical landscape. It’s the landslide caused by the dam (see photos below). The waiter’s two friends died in the landslide. It only happened yesterday. His uncle narrowly missed being swept away. It’s clear he’s understandably very emotional as he tells us about it.

Travel further along the escarpment to Mirante Morro dos Veados. Another view point. The rock is rich red colour. You can see the iron in the rock it’s that rich. Stunning views.

Back in BH, Miss Brasil produces some photos of the good old days when we were all working in Porto Alegre and Salvador between 1999 and 2001, on a new car factory for Ford. Such an enjoyable project and many happy memories.

Tonight is date night. Yes, dear reader. TT has got his jeans on and a shirt that’s been crumpled in his rucksack the past week. Miss Brasil, on the other hand, scrubs up exceptionally well and I feel exceedingly under dressed.

Excellent dinner. We’ve not seen each other for 18 years but it’s like it was only yesterday that we last saw each other. The sign of a good and long friendship.

Dinner followed by a visit to a local brew house to sample their beers. The reason we’re here at all doing this is because of one man.

Manoel.

We say a toast to Manoel.

You see, dear reader, it’s like this.

Back in July 1999, I flew to Porto Alegre with a British colleague (and I know he’s reading this and he’ll be smiling as I write about this episode in our careers) to start a project negotiating the contract sum for this new car plant we were working on. We, obviously, knew nothing about Brasilian construction costs. Our employer’s Brasilian JV partner promised that he would send the very best Brasilian engineer to assist in this complex matter. And that he would be able to speak fluent English.

So. I was to be met at Sao Paulo airport by my new Brasilian colleague, Manoel. I having flown in from the UK. He would then guide me through Sao Paulo airport to domestic departures for our flight south to Porto Alegre.

After a 12hr flight, Manoel is nowhere to be seen. Ho hum. Make my own way to domestic departure gate then. Arrive. This is in the days of having no mobile phones and instant messaging. This is 1999 old school.

Have no idea what Manoel looks like. Ask departure gate to tannoy Manoel. A bloke appears at the desk. Woman points to me and says I want to speak with him. He appears in front of me. The best description I can give is that he’s the spitting image of the Robertson’s Marmalade mascot.

Bearing in mind that he’s meant to be meeting a white Englishman at the airport this particular night, you would think his first words would be, “Oh hello Touring Taurean, nice to meet you. Welcome to Brasil.”

Err.

No.

His first words were. In stilted English. Quizzically.

“Who. Are. You?”

Oh. My. God.

We’ve got a right one here. Thought I.

We’re to get acquainted on the flight. It’s clear that his English is not good enough. It’s clear that he’s not done anything like this before. It’s clear he’s not really an engineer. It’s clear I’m now in the doo doo. We have a tight time schedule to do this exercise for our client.

We need the A-team.

Not Fraggle Rock.

Land in Porto Alegre. It’s 0400hrs my body clock time. Midnight in Porto Alegre. I’ve been travelling 17hrs. It’s minus 2C. Hang on. Brasil is meant to be hot. Taxi to hotel. It’s a fleapit. And I mean a fleapit. Our Brasilian JV’s secretary has booked it. She won’t be doing any more hotel bookings. I am shattered. We have to meet client at 0800hrs the following morning for a briefing meeting. It’s a big meeting. I’m 29. This is career defining stuff.

My British colleague is flying in to arrive first thing tomorrow morning. His flight is delayed due to the fog. I’ve not slept at all. We’re relying on Manoel. Manoel is from the tropics of Brasil in Salvador. Where the temperature is always steaming hot. He’s never experienced minus 2C. He’s suffering. It’s not the best start.

My British colleague and I know that we need an English speaking Brasilian. That knows what they’re doing. Is intelligent. And. Technically competent.

After a lot of argument with the Brasilian JV (which will have to feature in another blog dedicated to this Brasil project…oh, I could write a book…) it’s agreed that Manoel is not the man we need.

And this, dear reader, is how I met Miss Brasil.

She was put in touch with us. We spoke. She spoke perfect English. Knew what she was doing. And very competent. And reliable. And intelligent.

We were on a winner.

Miss Brasil arrived the following week. The A-team had arrived. We were saved.

Fraggle Rock is still working out what day it is.

You know how you meet someone and you have that instant connection…?

So. That is, very briefly, how we came to be having date night in Belo Horizonte tonight.

Definitely worth a toast to Manoel.

Thank you Manoel.