17. Pretending to be German

Tuesday, 8 January 2019

Ushuaia, Argentina

Not so much the Land of Fire, more the Land of Chucking it Down with Rain. Dismal day. Dismal view from cabin window. Ushuaia port. No more cruising now. This is where I start heading north for good.

Fond farewells to Table 8. We’ve only known each other four days. Feels longer than that.

Disembark down a really steep gangway and on to Argentine soil. Hotel is pretty much at end of the jetty, so walk. Getting wet. Exit the port gate.

First thing I see is a government notice board telling me that, “We should remember that the Malvinas, South Georgias, South Sandwich Islands, and the surrounding maritime areas, are, since 1833, under the illegal occupation of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Island.” Nope. I don’t think so.

Second thing I see is a London bus. Painted in the Argentine colours and used as a tour bus.

Only 0900hrs so unable to check in. Camp in the bar lounge. Warm. Dry. Fast-ish wifi. Big comfy leather seats. Sink faster than the Belgrano as I plonk myself into the leather. And keep sinking. Struggle to get out.

Ushuaia is where Jeremy Clarkson et al from BBC Top Gear had to disappear from a few years ago due to an unfortunate coincidence with his car’s number plate. H982 FKL. The locals took exception to this. They took it to be a reference to 1982 and the Falklands. Ushuaia is where the Argentine Navy sailed from to attack the British Overseas Territory, the Falkland Islands, in 1982. Tensions were running so high that Top Gear had to drive out of town but were subsequently attacked with stones and stuff enroute to Chile. So. I’m pretending to be German for the next few days.

Odd jobs need doing. Cash. Souvenirs. Repair kit for rucksack. Postcards. Post office.

Mr & Mrs Stuttgart told me to expect cash machines with no cash and fuel stations with no fuel, having just driven down from Bariloche to Punta Arenas. Time to load up with cash whilst I can. Just in case. First cash machine won’t give me any cash. It has cash as other customers are withdrawing cash. Doesn’t like my credit card.

Find another bank. Try for ARS10,000 (£200). Nope. No cash. Try again. Nope. Worrying. Try ARS2,000 (£40). Yep. Hear the cash fluttering in the counter. Out it pops. Hmm. Try for ARS5,000 (£100). Yep. Try again for ARS5,000. Yep. Got it. Try for ARS3,000 (£60). Yep. That works too. ARS15,000 (£300) is no problem in dribs and drabs but not ARS10,000 in one go.

For those that haven’t been to Ushuaia, it has one long shopping street, which looks like it’s a Swiss Alpine mountain town’s high street. Surrounded by snow capped mountains. Plus a harbour. So many souvenir shops. So many hiking shops. But none sell a rucksack repair kit. Directed to a haberdashery and such stuff store. The best I can do is an iron on patch for trousers. Have a brainwave. One of the many souvenir shops sells patches for Antarctica. I can buy one and use that to patch the gaping hole in my rucksack. Need to do some sewing. Where’s your Mum when you need her. She’s a dab hand at such things! She’d do it before I could even thread a needle! I know she’s reading this.

Walk up the high street and back down a side street. There’s not much in Ushuaia. But. Every Argentine I’ve interacted with so far has been nothing short of friendly. They speak English and interested to know where I come from. Just don’t mention the war.

At the far end of the town centre, overlooking the harbour, is the Falklands War Memorial Park and eternal flame. The Belgrano set sail from Ushuaia in 1982. It’s quite a large monument and memorial wall to those that died. A few propaganda photos of Argentinians in the Falklands doing very well are posted on large boards around the perimeter of the park. The Falklands war was the first war I can remember. The image of the Paras yomping across the moors with a Union flag flying is one image I particularly remember.

Ushuaia is also known as The End of the World. There’s a signboard which says so. Was expecting something a bit more spectacular but it’s hidden away inbetween lots of tourist kiosks selling boat trips to the outlying areas.

Useless information:

Hotel: Canal Beagle

Weather: Hi 8C Lo 4C. Wet, windy, cloudy, sunny, blue sky.

Modes of transport: Ship

Beer: Cape Horn Pale Ale