I was scared

Aqaba, Aqaba, Jordan

14 August 2013 The observant amongst you will note there’s been no blog for a few days which has caused some to worry about my welfare. All is well and all will become clear. Back to Aqaba…… Breakfast is extremely busy and noisy with Arabs shouting and screaming over their hummus. It’s not exactly a peaceful start to the day but then someone walks into the restaurant, claps their hands and shouts something in Arabic and all of a sudden they all disappear. Assume it’s a day trip to Petra departing. Peace once again. Which is more than can be said for Cairo. Start seeing news footage of the Pro-Morsi protest camps being bulldozed (including a comical scene where an Egyptian is thrashing a heavily armoured bulldozer with a stick, John Cleese like in Fawlty Towers thrashing his car with a branch). Arrange car and driver and a 4×4 jeep for jaunt to Wadi Rum, 40mins north of Aqaba. Swap from cramped clapped out taxi to cramped clapped out jeep. The local Bedouin now running the show and trying to flog a longer trip. An hour and a half is sufficient in a clapped out jeep thank you very much. An “18 year old” (so he says) drives us through the clapped out village of Rum. Not much to yo ho ho and a bottle of to cheer about though. Short drive to Lawrence’s Spring. The boy tells us we can climb up the rocks to it. Doesn’t look far as there is no sense of scale until two specks of human are seen halfway, clambering up. That looks hard work in this heat and a photo will suffice, me thinks. The course of the spring water down the moutain charted by the green trees clinging to the steep sides. The boy explains that when he saw me, “I was scared” on account of height, width and that crushing handshake. Another 15mins rumble across the desert valley to Khazali Canyon. Surrounded by mountains sprouting up out of the desert floor vertically. Another jeep in the distance is our only sense of scale. It’s only that that makes you realise the majesty of the moutains. Their epic scale. Truly awesome views. Reminiscent of Monument Valley in USA. Arriving at Khazali Canyon, the boy jumps out, points in the general direction of a mountain, simply says, “It’s over there by the tree” and promptly wanders off for a brew in the Bedouin tent flogging the usual tourist tat. He’s not exactly endearing himself to a tip. Canyon further than first thought because of no sense of scale but it’s an amazing canyon that you can walk some way into. Wind rushing through the vertical sides quite refreshing. Florence of Arabia and Omar Good Grief scramble out. Another short drive to a “sand dune”. Told it’s a great view from the top. Proceed up the steep hill of sand. One step forward. Slide back. One step forward. Slide back. Equals. Hard work. Like climbing brother-in-law’s grain store except no pesky nieces chucking wheat at you or trying to push you over. Puffing and panting. Half way up is sufficient. Can see the same view from half way up as from the top. Logic you see. Wow. Wow. Wow. What an incredible vista. Simply stunning. Desert beneath with mountains in the mid distance accentuated by hazy silhouettes of more mountains in the far distance. Absolutely no sense of scale. Awesome. This is why I work. Return to Aqaba. Much, much hotter than Wadi Rum. 43C hot. With a hint of humidity. Ouch. In need of a quick trim visit the Golden Anchor Hair Saloon. I know how to treat myself. Great not to have the usual mundane chat of a hairdresser “Are you on your lunch break?” (No I’m having breakfast). “Where you going for your holidays this year?” (Not Ibiza like you). “What you doing this weekend?” (Not going clubbing, drinking myself silly and getting “frisky” every night with a different lad (applies to both male and female hairdressers)). Through the course of limited conversation barber misunderstands and thinks I’m currently working in Irbid. When asked how much it is, he says,”Whatever you pay in Irbid”. Johnny Ball Think of A Number time and 3 pops into my head. And that’s what is paid. See further news footage of what is turning into a massacre in Cairo. Guess where we should be flying tomorrow!? Nile cruise confirm it’s operating. Cairo hotel confirm the airport transfer tomorrow. Hmmm. Hmmm. Hmmm. Then Egyptian authorities declare a countrywide state of emergency. Hmmm. Hmmm. Hmmm. Then Egyptian authorities declare a Cairo curfew. Hmmm. Hmmm. Hmmm. There’s only one thing to do. Retire to the bar for a beer and a conflab. Arab women playing in the hotel swimming pool fully clothed in black. Next to them skimpily clad blonde girl. The contrast is bizarre. Beer in bar. Outcome of discussion is. Cancel Cairo. Hold in Amman until Sunday. Further decision on Nile Cruise on Sunday depending on how it pans out. FCO advise against all but essential travel to Egypt so not insured. Would’ve been minimal risk had the situation been stable as per last few weeks but the dynamic has now changed. Dinner outside under starry sky overlooking the Red Sea, Israel & Egypt. Saudi Arabia 30 klicks south. German management trainees are on duty in this German branded hotel (we’re staying elsewhere though). Ze tall Aryan chats with the tall Taurean about the “local” guests who are incredibly noisy, running around shouting and screaming. Eyebrows are raised in that “yes, they are a complete pain and we struggle with their attitude – the Europeans are much better behaved and easier to deal with” (all that with a raised eyebrow!). Quite amusing. Jordanian wine exceeds expectations. Second glass required. Have thoroughly enjoyed re-visiting Jordan after working here for 3 months in 2002. If there’s one country you really should visit its Jordan. Safe. Friendly. Interesting. Great food and wine. Only 5hrs from England. Put it on your bucket list now!