Thursday, 14 March 2019
Ataco, El Salvador
Short 1hr flight to El Salvador. Flying over Nicaragua unfortunately. The itinerary was meant to take in Nicaragua but the British Foreign Office advise against all travel there due to ‘disturbances’. One of our group was there last year on holiday and tells us it’s the most amazing place. She keeps rubbing it in.
Sit next to an elderly Canadian woman who is rather petite. As we’re disembarking she makes the mistake of pulling my rucksack out from the overhead locker. She nearly breaks her back and crumples under the weight when she realises the error of her ways because of the weight of it. “Ooh that’s a big one!”, she says.
Very hot and very humid in the capital San Salvador. Before driving the 2hrs to Ataco up in the volcanic mountains, briefly stop at the Reconciliation Monument. The El Salvador Civil War lasted from 1979 through to the peace accord in 1992 between the military led government and left wing guerrillas under the name of FMLN (Farabundo Martí National Liberation Front – take note of this FMLN as it features in tomorrow’s blog!!). The civil war came about because of socio-economic inequality and the government, supported by the USA, suppressing various uprisings with death squads. The monument shows an army person joining together with a guerrilla to promote peace. Quite an impressive sculpture (see photos below).
As we climb up into the volcanic mountain range there are volcanoes to our left and right. Quite an impressive sight. The temperature also drops considerably.
Arrive at dusk at the Casa Degraciela (http://www.casadegraciela.com/?lang=en). We won’t see the full splendour of our surroundings until tomorrow morning. Excellent small hotel on the market square next to the cathedral.
Sitting outside for dinner in the much needed cool breeze when some Americans (who have just finished eating on the adjacent table) introduce themselves. They’re missionaries. Come to do good.
We’ve just been served our dinners and tucking in. The Americans ignore that and start having in depth conversations about what they’re doing and the force for good that they are. Bloody rude lot. Interrupting dinner.
First impressions of El Salvador. Loving it.