Monday, 20 May 2019
Seward, Alaska, USA
Dismal and dreary weather. All day. Was going to walk along the coastal path to the main town area of Seward and visit the Sea Life Centre, 2km away, but it’s chucking it down. Taxi it is. Taxi driver used to drive the Dalton Highway between Fairbanks and Prudhoe Bay. My route in a few days. He used to be an Ice Road Trucker. Ever seen the TV programme, ‘Ice Road Truckers’? He was in series 1. Apparently. Provides some useful information for me on driving the route. The last time I was given information on the route was when I met an American couple in the Copper Canyon, in Mexico. That seems years ago now.
But first lunch. There’s a dog, about the size of a Doberman, sitting quietly on the outside entrance mat of the café. People that know me know that I hate dogs. And don’t get me started on cats. Wary as I approach. Have to bypass it on the mat to enter café. As I lean down to open the door handle this quiet dog immediately transforms into the beast. Bloody hell. It leaps up snarling and barking. Its front legs are on my stomach. Snarling, baring its teeth, and growling. Its head is close to mine. Its eyes are wild. If I had a gun, it would be dead now. Don’t move. It drops down onto the floor. Remain motionless. It’s all I can do. Hands in pockets. Protected. If it bites, it will get a kick. Owner quickly runs out from café and calms it down. Bloody dogs. Doesn’t even have a leash. Owner is told to control her dog. She couldn’t give a toss. Bloody dog owners. Once inside the café though, excellent fresh halibut tacos. Just what is needed on this dismal day.
Quick look around the Sea Life Centre. Quite small and only takes an hour. So a few more hours to kill in Seward. The only reason I’m here in Seward for longer than necessary is that my next hotel in Cooper Landing didn’t have any availability until Wednesday. The rain and grey sky doesn’t exactly show Seward off at its best. But even with bright blue sky and sun, Seward would still struggle to shine. It’s a bit backward. There are some odd bods about. Think remote Scottish Highlands fishing port. Has that air of remoteness and decay about the place.
However.
Seward’s one redeeming feature is a little gem of a discovery. A restaurant called ‘The Cookery’. Thank you TripAdvisor.
A very memorable dinner. Order fresh scallops for starters. Normally in Europe if you order scallops as a starter you would generally get three. Though have noticed in certain restaurants this is being reduced to two now. Well, as you all know by now. America does things ‘bigly’. Not three. Not four. Not five scallops. No. Six whole large scallops for a starter. Fresh, juicy and tasty. Ah yes.
Followed by the freshest halibut with a walnut crust. Snowy white fish straight out of the sea a few hours ago. Oh. Wow. Best fish dish I’ve had in a restaurant. Spirits are lifted much further with a very nice glass of Viognier. And then a lemon turnover with cheesecake ice cream. Oh yes. That’ll do very nicely. Note to self. Come back for dinner tomorrow.
The mere fact dinner is the highlight of my day in Seward tells you much about Seward.
One response to “149. Killing time”
Too bad you were not able to enjoy Seward properly due to the weather. There are some amazing tours from Seward, like observing several glaciers that originate from the Harding Ice Field. We visited Seward a few years back and cruised Kenai Fjords national park, and the southern limits of Prince William Sound. Puffins, orcas, belugas, the works. And a mind-blowing fresh salmon lunch on the boat, served with Alaskan moonshine and blue ice from the calving Holgate glacier. It was stellar.