NWP 14. Cultural Appropriation

28-Aug-24 Ulukhaktuk

Morning lectures, as usual, are excellent. Photographs of the Inuit taken in the 1930s and 1950s.

But.

There’s a trigger warning.

Will be shown dead foxes. Yikes. And other things being killed.

FFS. We are all grown mature adults. Not a bunch of woke millennials crying at the slightest thing. No. We’re made of sterner stuff.

One shows a small boat from the 1930s. It’s one of our Inuit Cultural Ambassadors’ (CA) grandfather’s boat. We are privileged to see a slice of life from another era. Another photo shows Inuit in traditional dress that you were perhaps taught at school. Clothed in furs. Trigger alert. Animals were killed to clothe them.

‘Sounds of the Sea’ lecture is excellent. Scientists put hydrophones in the sea to detect all sorts of noise. Either man made like submarines, sea life like whales or environmental like waves and rain. Hydrophones can pick up low frequency whale noises from 1,000 miles away. Scientists know that certain sounds belong to certain animals by the pattern and frequency. Fascinating stuff. Listening to a recording of whales is almost like a jazz trombonist playing. It’s that quality of sound. End of lecture quiz. Man made or natural sounds? And we listen intently to 10 sounds. All are convinced that one is a dolphin.

It’s not.

It’s a creaking door.

Misses Nottingham, Braunschweig, Brasil, Vancouver. Etc. Sorry to disappoint you all but have traded you in for another model. Have been getting to know Miss Hannover. She invites me to join her for lunch. Our connection. I used to live in Braunschweig. Which is near enough. Early stages yet. But I’m anticipating something more in the relationship. A pot of homemade jam perhaps. A knitted scarf. About 30 years older than me. Oh yes. Still got it dear reader. I’ve pulled.

Amazing coincidence. American couple I’ve been chatting with recognise a lady from a trip they did to New Zealand. In. Wait. For. It. 2008. 16 years ago. They even have a photo of her on their mobile phones still. Unbelievable. And they only live about 2hrs apart in Seattle.

You forget how big this country is. Taken 18hrs sailing over the Amundsen Gulf through the night and much of the day to arrive at the Inuit settlement of Ulukhaktuk. Our Inuit CAs tell us that we have been granted permission to land but don’t do this, that and the other. And don’t take photos of the cemetery. Specific request from tribal elders.

But.Before we can go ashore. Wait to ferry about 40 Inuit to the ship. To give a cultural display. Quite why they couldn’t do it in their community hall is beyond me. Well. Actually. I’m guessing it’s part of the deal. Come on board a nice luxurious ship for a few hours. Have a drink. We’ll let you land.

Previously been subjected to a cultural display in Barrow/Utqiagvik in 2019. Strictly Come Dancing it isn’t. And I say no more. But know I am not alone in thinking this. Judging from a few other comments from fellow passengers.

Dare I suggest that there’s a slight whiff of rebellion amongst some of the passengers creeping in about the Inuit ‘this is our land not yours….do this…not this…’ mentality?

Landing on shore the options are walk to the top of a hill in boots that don’t really fit and unsuitable for hiking. Or. A guided tour of the settlement. Guided tour sounds interesting. Can climb a hill any old day. In proper hiking boots. Dreadful. Small Inuit speaks to a group of 20. But only two or three adjacent can hear him. Because of wind and softly spoken. Group soon starts fracturing. Visit to the Inuit Arts Centre sounds interesting. What they actually mean is shop.

Another ramble through the settlement. Large tanks feed the diesel generator to provide power. A community meeting next week to discuss whether to make the place alcohol free. As in most situations. Alcohol fuels crime. Drink driving seems to be the biggest crime.

Very barren tundra and very dry. Our Inuit CAs had previously told us not to be put off by the rubbish lying around. There’s all sorts of detritus. Toys. Cars. Skidoos. Quad bikes. If it breaks down it’s kept for spares.

Enticed into the school’s sports hall for an Inuit print making demonstration. What they actually mean is a shop. Well. A few trestle tables with locals selling earrings, seal fur gloves, seal fur hats, and such stuff. A small seal made of seal fur attracts my attention. Exactly like one my Mum has. From 60 years ago. Pick it up. Quite taken with it as it’s a sentimental memory. I’ll buy it. Thinking it’s a few quid. Because that’s all it’s really worth. How much? Ask I. CAD30. Says she. Really?!?! Think I. It’s in my hand. I actually do want it. So. Cough up. Reminding myself that our Inuit CAs have told us not to barter. Reminding myself that this is seemingly all a bit of a con. For the tourist dollar. Like everywhere else in the world. Not that I’m a cynical old sod, dear reader.

Local shop is seemingly fully stocked with groceries. Albeit not fresh. Tins. Packets. Canadian contingent go gulp. This is expensive. And it is. Logistics, dear reader. Boat or aircraft every so often. Not the daily lorry delivery we all expect in our comfortable western lives. Complaining about the lack of avocadoes.

Clear that this is a hard lifestyle.

Another splashing of saltwater spray as we Zodiac back to the boat. Waterproof trousers have ridden down a little. Now have a soggy bottom.

To complete the Inuit experience. An evening talk on Inuit Ulu. A crescent shaped blade with handle. Inuit miffed that some western companies are copying the style and selling cheapo products.

And then for the first time. But suspect not the last. Two words we all love to hear.

Cultural Appropriation.

Do not appropriate our culture. You do not have the right.

Well, dear reader. This upsets the French. Always the French.

French woman stands up and mentions that the Ulu style blade was well used in Europe for tanning way before you lot came on to the scene. Not those exact words. But you get my drift.

Ouch.

Two young Inuit girls thought they were going to have an easy gig. Talking about Ulus and Inuit tattoos. Which we also can’t have. We’ve not earnt the right. It’s not our story.

They are taken aback by this.

They don’t know how to react.

They’re not used to being challenged like this. One feels.

Well that soon wraps up the evening talk.

As I said. There’s a faint undercurrent of rebellion in the air.

Bit of an edge tonight, dear reader.

But we’re not done yet.

Still have the lighting of the Inuit qulliq.

What you may ask is a qulliq. Well. It’s a lamp fuelled by seal oil or blubber. Crescent shaped. On a slight incline. So the wick of Arctic cottongrass or moss along the straight top side can soak up the oil pooling below. And burn. To provide heat and light in an igloo. Can raise the temperature inside an igloo to a toasty 16C.