25-Sept-24 Boston, Massachusetts
Always wanted to go to Harvard since a family friend studied there in the 1970s. And today, can finally say ‘I’ve been to Harvard’. Well. OK. I walked through its campus. No actual study was done. But have watched Suits. Does that qualify me for law school?
Not quite what I was expecting. Quite a plain campus and not very architecturally interesting. Unlike Oxford or Cambridge. Englishman John Harvard was a Puritan minister in New England who bequeathed a large amount to set up a college upon his death in 1638…which was named after him. The oldest university in the USA.
Harvard Law School occupies one campus across a busy road from Harvard University’s campus. Harvard’s statue sits proudly in the main tree lined square of Harvard University.
Memorial Hall reminds you of St Pancras station or the Natural History Museum in London with similar architecture. Lots of bright young things are streaming in through a door to its lecture hall. Tempted to follow just to see inside. But. Stick out like a sore thumb. No study papers or rucksack in hand. And not a bright young thing.
A pleasant hour or so meandering around campus before heading to the corner of Brimmer and Beacon Street on the northern edge of Boston Common.
Why? You might wonder?
Well.
In the 1980s, Channel 4 broadcast a sitcom on a Friday night. And many happy memories watching said sitcom with friends each Friday as a teenager.
The name of sitcom?
Cheers.
Where everybody knows your name.
An iconic theme tune.
Walking down the steps to the basement bar it’s somewhat disappointing to find it’s nothing like the Cheers bar. No. Rather a small cramped bar selling burgers and other greasy food stacked high on a plate. Ground floor has a mock up of the Cheers set but again it doesn’t quite hit the spot. Tourist trap.
But. A tick on the bucket list.
By coincidence a young lady who lives a few hundred yards away from me at home is also in Boston this week to see ELO. Take up her recommendation to follow the Freedom Trail. From Boston Common to Copp’s Hill Burying Ground.
An excellent way to see Boston and understand the history.
Liking Boston. Lot smaller than anticipated. Quite white and middle class. There’s a nice feel to the place and obviously historic. Named after Boston in Lincolnshire it was founded in 1630 by the Puritan settlers.
Starting in Boston Common, which is the USA’s oldest public park and originally used for Puritanical punishments, head up to the State House, built in 1798. Located high up on top of a hill it would have had impressive views in the days before high rise buildings.
Nearby is the Granary Burial Ground, established in 1660, where a number of important historical figures are buried. Benjamin Franklin’s parents, John Hancock, Samuel Adams (both Founding Fathers) and Paul Revere (American patriot and famed revolutionary). Plenty of headstones popping out the ground in tightly packed formation.
Passing the Old City Hall, built in 1865, intrigued by the donkey in the courtyard. Which explains why the Democrats are represented by a donkey and Republicans by an elephant.
In 1828, when Andrew Jackson established the Democrat party he ran for President using the slogan, ‘Let the people rule’. His opponents thought him silly and labelled him a ‘jackass’. Jackson used this to his advantage though by using the donkey on his campaign posters. Which became the accepted symbol of the Democrat party.
The Republican elephant was adopted after cartoonists used it to symbolise them.
Many of you will have heard of the Boston Tea Party. Well. It began in the Old South Meeting House. Being the largest building in colonial Boston, it was well used for public meetings and became the centre for protests against the British.
When three tea ships carrying East India Company tea arrived in Boston, American patriots refused to allow the tea to be unloaded and the tax paid. For three weeks, mass meetings gathered to appeal to Royal Governor Hutchinson to send the ships away.
On 16 December 1773, 5,000 people assembled in the hall to protest about the Tea Act before setting off to the nearby harbour to destroy the tea. All 342 chests of it.
What became known as the Boston Tea Party.
Those pesky British were trying to enforce laws without the consent of the people.
In June 1774, the British imposed martial law on Boston and closed its port to shipping with thousands of troops occupying the town. Which brought the colonies closer to revolution and independence.
On 19 April 1775, war broke out and the British were forced to evacuate Boston. A year later on 4 July 1776, the Declaration of Independence was signed. And the USA eventually became free of British rule after a war lasting just over eight years.
But we’re not done with revolution yet, dear reader. Further towards the harbour is the Old State House and outside is where British soldiers shot several in a crowd of a few hundred protesting taxation and occupation on 5 March 1770.
Those pesky British again.
Intrigued by a tall white stone building. Investigation required. Originally the Custom House built in 1849 with the tower being added in 1915. Now a Marriott Vacation Club of private residences and hotel rooms it appears. Pretend to be a guest. And walk in. Looking like I know where I’m going. I don’t. But soon find myself on the upper floor of the domed interior. We don’t build ‘em like this anymore unfortunately.
Passing through the newly developed harbour and market arrive at Faneuil Hall, built in 1741. Cited as the home of free speech as it hosted America’s first Town Hall meeting.
In Little Italy is the former home of Paul Revere. Famed for his midnight ride to alert fellow American patriots of approaching British troops prior to battle in 1775. He subsequently organised an intelligence and alarm system to monitor British forces advancing in battle.
Those pesky British again.
The alert was made by raising a lantern signal to the top of the Old North Church to warn colonists in Charlestown, across the Charles River. Built in 1723, the Old North Church still stands. Nice to see that America has some buildings older than 200 years.
Just up the road from the Old North Church, self guided walking tour ends at Copp’s Hill Burying Ground. No more time to continue the trail. Need to go back. And pack.
An illuminating insight into American and British history following the Freedom Trail. Well worth walking.
And sadly, dear reader, the final day of the trip.
Started with Frasier in Seattle.
Ends with Cheers in Boston.
Tossed salads and scrambled eggs to a place where everybody knows your name.
Cheers.
