83. Left wing revolutionaries

Friday, 15 March 2019

Ataco, El Salvador

 

Great start to the day sitting outside on the terrace eating breakfast surrounded by lawns and a rustic courtyard set against a bright blue sky. Life is good. Very good. We’re all very happy where we are. This is a nice place to spend a few days.

Morning spent driving to three local towns to see the markets, churches and museums.

People. Places. Things.

As is usual with all these small towns, there’s the central square with a church at one end. Entering Nahuizalco visit the local market. Plenty of fresh produce on display being sold by women in their brightly coloured dresses and most of them wearing a tea towel on their head to protect against the sun. See a woman selling fresh live crabs from a large bowl. Last time I saw crabs for sale was Alausi in Ecuador all those weeks ago. Seems a lifetime ago though. See some local tourists climbing onto the church roof through the belfry tower with a selfie stick. They climb to the top of the roof with their selfie stick. One of the more bizarre things I’ve seen on this trip. Small museum dedicated to the 1932 massacre of a number of peasants who were revolting against low pay and poor living conditions. It’s a precursor to what happened during the 1980s Civil War.

Can’t begin to tell you how friendly everyone is here in El Salvador. Feels very safe and not what we were expecting at all.

The next town of Juayua is know for its church with a black Jesus. The theory being that the Spanish bought a white Jesus but the locals didn’t take to a white Jesus as he wasn’t the same colour as their skin so the Spanish painted him black so the locals would have a greater affinity with him. Outside the church, an old wisened man is selling what can best be described as Slush Puppies from his mobile stall. A block of ice is turned on a metal grater to create ice shavings. These are scooped up in a cup and compacted to which various flavourings are added (see video below). Incidentally, Juayua’s local supermarket stocks Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce. Not what you’d expect to see in the middle of El Salvador!

Nearby is the Green Lagoon. A lake formed in the caldera of a dormant volcano. Steep roads up the side of the volcano then steep and twisty down into the caldera. Heavily wooded with a tranquil lake, locals enjoying picnics and fishing. Very idyllic spot and you get the sense of being closed in by the volcano sides.

Returning to Ataco, see go-karts racing down the mountain roads. They’re gravity driven and carry firewood from the forests above to the towns below. Quite some speed they get up to and the only brake is by applying pressure with your feet onto two strips of rubber (made from an old car tyre) onto the road. You’d have to apply some pressure though given the weight and speed.

Wander around Ataco. It’s a lovely old town and very friendly. Poke my head into a barber’s shop to see what’s what. Old bloke is cutting young lad’s hair. Ask if it’s OK to take a photo. No problem. If you look closely at the photo below, you’ll see that the walls are lined with old calendars. Next door is a bar so pop my head into that to see what’s what. My fellow traveller decides now is a good time for a beer so an order goes in to the young woman whose bar it is. She tells us there’s a courtyard out the back. Assuming it’s a beer garden, go and have a look. It’s not. It’s a courtyard lined with shanty type dwellings. Thirteen shacks to be precise. Made of odds and sods. Corrugated iron. Plastic sheeting. Pallets. The sort of thing you might build to house animals in back home. Except. These are people’s homes. USD35/month rent for one of these out the back or USD80/month rent for a stone built dwelling that fronts on to the street. Which means you can use it for a business. Like the small bar she’s created. As we walk through to the back, see the small lounge area. Her daughter is busy colouring in a book on the sofa, surrounded by dining table and TV set. That’s their living and sleeping space. A timber framed enclosure covered in plastic sheeting adjoins the outside wall. Inside is a large plastic water butt and a toilet. That’s the bathroom. Very basic. Next door to her we start chatting with an old man. It’s her 82 year old grandfather. He’s ex army and looks fit as a fiddle. His living space is very small too and a table in the room has a small Catholic shrine set up with religious figurines. His outside wall consists of torn plastic sheeting. As I wander about the courtyard, an old woman pokes her head out of her door and comes to see what’s what. As I have camera in hand and having a nosey, she asks if I’m a journalist. No. Just a simple tourist. Her husband soon appears from the shack and they allow me to take their photograph, which they find amusing when I show it to them. Fascinating insight into people’s lives.

Walking back to hotel, see the hotel staff setting up a table on the street corner. Assume it to be a publicity thing to entice people in for dinner. As we’re walking out for dinner later on, realise there’s a religious procession about to take place from the church opposite. Prime location to take photos is the street corner where the dining table had been set up. So stand there. To watch proceedings.

The processional music is awful. Think of some old film set in a Central American dictatorship which has your stereotypical town band playing crap music. That’s what we’re listening to. Jesus appears on a ‘raft’ held aloft by lots of young men on their shoulders. It looks heavy and is quite big. A few men have poles to lift the electricity and phone wires up, that are strewn across the road, so Jesus doesn’t garrotte himself. As Jesus approaches, two young women kneel at my feet and start praying. I have this effect on people. After a few seconds, realise they’re praying at to the dining table I’m standing at. A few seconds more, realise the dining table isn’t a publicity stunt for dinner but is in fact full of religious figurines (it’s dark and hadn’t paid much attention). Oh. It’s a religious shrine. Move to the side of the table so they can see the table and pray.

Few minutes later the Catholic priest and his entourage of young boys appears behind the two women praying in front of me. He then kneels down, along with his boys, and starts praying towards the table. Erm. Think I’m standing in the wrong place here. Move a couple of steps away from the table.

And then.

The two women produce a radio mic and start praying such that the prayers are coming over the PA system. The procession stops. People stop. They turn and look at me next to the table. And they all start praying enmasse.

Oh ‘eck.

Have hundreds of eyes looking at me next to table photographing the scene before me.

Now is a good time to move well away from the table.

Praying finished and the procession continues. Jesus makes his way down the road all lit up with fairy lights. Followed by Mary. Followed by a load of blokes carting a diesel generator and a load of cable to power up the lights.

And if that wasn’t enough excitement…

Walking back from dinner, hear music emanating from a bar. As it sounds quite good, go and investigate. Poke my head around the open door. A bloke is singing with his guitar in a basic room filled with people sitting on plastic chairs. The back row see me and, being very friendly, they motion for me to come in and sit down. This then causes the front rows to turn around to see what the commotion is. So I’ve now got the whole room of about twenty five people looking at me, motioning for me to come and sit down and enjoy the music. Am then joined by my three fellow travelling companions plus the local guide. The singer is still singing whilst all this commotion is going on. Assume it’s a local bar with live music so we make our way to a few vacant seats at the back. Singer finishes his song and then welcomes us to the group. Tell him we’re English but as his English isn’t brilliant our local guide translates.

Anyway.

Turns out that we’ve gatecrashed the left wing revolutionary party’s benefit gig. The FMLN political party were the left wing guerrillas during the civil war. They’ve just lost the local election to a right wing party and so having this gig to pep up the local lefties. You know how easily these leftie socialists get upset by not winning elections.

Now. As some of you may know. I’m not left wing. This may surprise some of you.

However. My three travelling companions are leftie socialists. Hard left.

And don’t I know it.

Stupidly mentioned Brexit one evening. Deary me. Hysterical.

The married couple, in particular, actually protested at the US Embassy in London in the 1980s in support of their fellow left wing revolutionaries in El Salvador.

Amongst other protests.

But they do enjoy their second home in France.

So.

You can imagine the glee that they’re here now amongst former left wing guerrillas and revolutionaries. This story is translated for the benefit of the assembled crowd.

Well.

This gets the audience going no end.

The round of applause they got was loud and long.

And there’s lots of thank yous.

Making my way back to the hotel, everyone I pass in the street says, “Buenos noches.” (Good evening). Really friendly.

El Salvador.

Loving it.

82. Ooh that’s a big one

Thursday, 14 March 2019

Ataco, El Salvador

 

Short 1hr flight to El Salvador. Flying over Nicaragua unfortunately. The itinerary was meant to take in Nicaragua but the British Foreign Office advise against all travel there due to ‘disturbances’. One of our group was there last year on holiday and tells us it’s the most amazing place. She keeps rubbing it in.

Sit next to an elderly Canadian woman who is rather petite. As we’re disembarking she makes the mistake of pulling my rucksack out from the overhead locker. She nearly breaks her back and crumples under the weight when she realises the error of her ways because of the weight of it. “Ooh that’s a big one!”, she says.

Very hot and very humid in the capital San Salvador. Before driving the 2hrs to Ataco up in the volcanic mountains, briefly stop at the Reconciliation Monument. The El Salvador Civil War lasted from 1979 through to the peace accord in 1992 between the military led government and left wing guerrillas under the name of FMLN (Farabundo Martí National Liberation Front – take note of this FMLN as it features in tomorrow’s blog!!). The civil war came about because of socio-economic inequality and the government, supported by the USA, suppressing various uprisings with death squads. The monument shows an army person joining together with a guerrilla to promote peace. Quite an impressive sculpture (see photos below).

As we climb up into the volcanic mountain range there are volcanoes to our left and right. Quite an impressive sight. The temperature also drops considerably.

Arrive at dusk at the Casa Degraciela (http://www.casadegraciela.com/?lang=en). We won’t see the full splendour of our surroundings until tomorrow morning.  Excellent small hotel on the market square next to the cathedral.

Sitting outside for dinner in the much needed cool breeze when some Americans (who have just finished eating on the adjacent table) introduce themselves. They’re missionaries. Come to do good.

We’ve just been served our dinners and tucking in. The Americans ignore that and start having in depth conversations about what they’re doing and the force for good that they are. Bloody rude lot. Interrupting dinner.

First impressions of El Salvador. Loving it.

81. Do you know the way to…

Wednesday, 13 March 2019

San Jose, Costa Rica

 

Another hot and humid start to the day. 4hr morning drive to San Jose. Driver knows the way but do you know the way to San Jose?

First hour is on gravel dirt roads driving through rolling countryside and farms before returning to the main road and the big city.

Only here for a night to be close to the airport for tomorrow’s flight. Can understand why as we drive through the city centre. There’s nothing about San Jose that appeals. Bit ramshackle. Staying at the Hotel Don Carlos (https://www.doncarloshotel.com/), small family owned hotel run for generations by the same family. Let’s call it rustic and charming and leave it at that.

Lunch in the covered market dating back to 1880. The central part has many ‘restauarants’ (I use the term loosely) all vying for punters with plump waitresses, heavily made up and wearing brightly coloured dresses, waving their hands at any passer by to attract their attention and thrusting a menu in their face. Think Nottingham’s Victoria Centre Market with a bit of colour and glamour, rather than the dull grey and the immigrant clientele. Entertainment provided by a few old codgers loudly playing the xylophone and what appears to be a cheese grater providing supplementary percussion. A vain attempt at dancing to the beat too. Either that or they desperately need the loo.

Walking along the main pedestrianised shopping street is like any other you would find in the UK but there are many street stalls selling fruit, jewellery and dodgy goods. An old man is playing the violin busking for money. Except. The violin only has one string and he’s not making any noise whatsoever. Walk past a gun shop and after peering through the security grille doors, the owner invites me in for a quick look. Plenty of pistols and assault rifles adorn the walls. It’s apparently legal to carry a concealed gun in Costa Rica, providing you have a licence. Because that obviously stops the bad people from carrying weapons. Doesn’t it.

The most architecturally stunning building in the city is the National Theatre. Built in a European style in the late 19th century it stands proud in the main square. As Costa Rica doesn’t have an official Presidential Palace or house, the National Theatre stands in to receive dignitaries and entertain foreign heads of state. Very ornate inside, typical of European theatres. The auditorium floor can be raised a metre or so to become level with the stage. Underneath the auditorium is a giant hand turned screw, which needs a few people to turn it. This then turns six other screws through a series of cogs to raise the floor up. Purely hand driven, no electrical motors here. The auditorium has, of course, the Presidential box, with the Presidential seat. No one is allowed to sit in the box apart from the President and his party though, so is quite often vacant during performances.

The main break out room over the front of the theatre is an ornate affair with painted ceilings, gold leaf effects and a marquetry floor, consisting of about fifteen types of wood. The ceiling has a woman painted on whose eyes follow you as you walk from one side of the room to the other. Some effect known as ‘elliptical infinity’, I understand. Quite disconcerting being watched all the time. Last saw something like that in the Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow. A dying soldier on the battlefield watched you wherever you were in the room.

It’s a startling effect.

80. Row, row, row your boat…

Tuesday, 12 March 2019

La Fortuna, Costa Rica

 

The disadvantage of sleeping in a chalet with a corrugated tin roof is that when it rains it sounds like bullets being fired at the roof.

All.

Through.

The.

Night.

Just like being in a caravan.

An early start too.

The itinerary says, “Enjoy a boat ride down the river Penas Blancas.” Now, when you read that, does it scream a nice pleasure boat sitting in the dry with comfy seating admiring the view or does it scream sitting on an inflatable dinghy, wearing a life jacket, getting your feet wet and having to paddle?

Yeah. Me neither.

Most enjoyable though and immense fun.

It’s a very pleasant hour and a half trickling down the river at a sedate 3mph admiring the birds, monkeys and iguanas. Some rowing required though. Though as the unofficial photographer for the group (on account that I’m the only one to have brought a camera as have a waterproof dunk bag) it’s a veeeerrrrryyyyy slllllooooowwwww process putting camera away when instructed to paddle. If you get my drift. It’s not white water rafting by any stretch of the imagination. More the River Trent.

And that was about as exerting as today got. Humidity preventing doing anything more exerting than the short walk into La Fortuna for lunch and laundry.

Having collected laundry later in the afternoon, find myself walking back with a plastic bag full of clean clothes with my name written on the bag in large letters. Approach a bank which has both a security van transferring money to the ATM and an armed guard watching proceedings.

As I get nearer, armed guard puts his hand on his weapon ready to draw. Hardly look like a bank robber at the best of times. Let alone wearing shorts, flip flops and bag of washing with my name in big letters written on it.

Armed guard obviously thought otherwise.

79. Hi-de-hi

Monday, 11 March 2019

La Fortuna, Costa Rica

 

Cold, wet and very windy as we leave the highlands of Santa Elena. The rain is a theme for the day but as we descend down to La Fortuna, the cold gives way to heat and humidity. Instead of a 3hr bus journey back the way we came, it’s to be a 1hr-ish bus plus a 45 minute boat ride across Lake Arenal and then a 30min bus.

Cloudy and grey. The boat is more a floating pontoon with seats and an engine and embark from a small beach reached down a very steep dirt track. The sort you might find in Devon driving down to a very small National Trust car park and secluded beach.

Arriving at La Fortuna, it’s a far cry from the clear blue skies and sun when we passed through a couple of days ago. The volcano is now shrouded in cloud, it’s raining, hot and humid.

Spending two nights at the Hotel Montechiari (http://www.hotelarenalmontechiari.com/). It’s how I imagine Butlins to be. Rows of very basic chalets.

But set in tropical gardens.

And a view of the cone of Arenal volcano.

So a bit different to Skegness in that respect.

All it needs is Ruth Madoc to come over the PA saying, “Morning campers. Hi-de-hi.”

An afternoon at leisure was meant for activities such as horse riding, trekking, quad biking, rafting and the like. But the heat and humidity has got to us all.

And it’s raining heavily.

Lazy afternoon doing nothing required.

We’re all knackered.

78. Too many beans

Sunday, 10 March 2019

Santa Elena/Monteverde, Costa Rica

 

Travelling companion arrives for the morning meet a couple of minutes late. “Sorry I’m late, too many beans.”, she says. Really don’t want to know about other people’s bowel movements.

Short drive up to the cloud forest for a walk along the trail with a properly trained guide who knows what he’s doing and where he’s going. Unlike the other day.

Someone who knows what he’s doing. Within a few minutes he can hear a bird call. Within seconds he’s set up his spotting scope and got it centred on the bird. Just like that. We’re all standing there dumbfounded as none of us can see a thing through the foliage even when he points the bird out. The view through the spotting scope is superb. Really brings it alive with colours. Definitely need the spotting scope. Without it, we’d be in the same boat as the other day. Looking at leaves all day. He also has a laser guider to point out the area we should be looking at. This is more like it. Actually seeing something. Well worth having.

So many tourists and at one point there’s a traffic jam on the trail as all the guides have their scopes set up in the same place along with their groups to look at a bird.

For the first time in weeks, wearing a rain coat. It’s quite cool and drizzly in the cloud forest, as we’re up at about 5,500ft.

Excellent walk along the trail and see a few birds through the scope and a monkey. And it’s not hot and humid.

Adjacent the park entrance is a hummingbird centre. They’ve set up sugar water feeders to entice the hummingbirds. Oh my. Just stand still and they ruffle your hair as they whizz past. You can get so close to the feeders it’s mesmerising. Look at the slow motion video below and you’ll see what I mean.

Quick visit to an orchid garden followed by a butterfly farm. Both fascinating and interesting. The butterfly farm tour starts with a display of creepy crawlies. Scorpions, spiders, bugs and a cockroach. The lad says that cockroaches are very clean and to prove it puts it in his mouth whole. Yukety yukety yuk!

Yeah, we all go, “Eeeuuwwwrrrgghh”, in unison, too.

77. Two toucans twice

Saturday, 9 March 2019

Santa Elena/Monteverde, Costa Rica

 

Leisurely day today. Starts with being shown a baby pineapple plant. They take 9 months to grow to full size and pass many pineapple plantations enroute. Makes a change from bananas.

Drive 5hrs through lush rolling countryside to Santa Elena in the Monteverde region. The landscape and housing has changed substantially. Gone are the rainforest and banana plantations. Now it’s like driving through the Derbyshire Peak District. Hills, fields and farms.

A lot more tourism in this area has obviously created a wealthy economy. Posh hotels and resorts. Plenty of outdoor activities. Driving through La Fortuna, see the Arenal volcano. A true volcanic cone standing proud. Last erupted in 2010. Let’s hope it’s not on a 9 year cycle.

Stunning scenery as we drive along the shoreline of Lake Arenal, a very large lake, with amazing views when we have a brief pit stop at a cracking café. They have perhaps the largest display of homemade cakes. The cinnamon roll looks tasty. As did that upside down pineapple cake. Naughty but nice.

In the car park stands a tree with two toucans. They’re the ‘Collared Aracari’ type as opposed to yesterday’s glorious ‘keel-billed’ type. You see. You learn on this blog. They’re soon joined by another pair.

Two toucans twice.

Good quality roads until the last 30km where it turns into a bumpy gravel dirt road. But we’re taking country roads passing nice farms and haciendas. There’s an upmarket feel to the place now. Unlike the run from the Panamanian border to Sarapiqui the other day.

This is nice.

Check into the Hotel Poco a Poco (http://www.hotelpocoapoco.com/) in Santa Elena. Sunset terrace overlooking the swimming pool overlooking the spa overlooking the lush green valley.

Ah yes.

This’ll do nicely for a couple of days.

And relax.

76. Lost!

Friday, 8 March 2019

Sarapiqui, Costa Rica

 

Scheduled for a 2hr walk along a 1,600m trail through the rainforest, starting at 0830hrs and returning 1030hrs.

Ho.

Ho.

Ho.

Walk along the suspension footbridge to cross the river far below. Immediately see an iguana sunning itself high up on a lone branch, quickly followed by a bright red breasted bird. Things are looking up. Expecting great things from this rainforest walk. Seeing lots of interesting wildlife in this vast nature reserve in Costa Rica, famed for its rich wildlife.

Ho.

Ho.

Ho.

I should perhaps mention the heat and humidity too.

Walking along the main trail, hear a howler monkey howling to its mates who quickly reply. Can hear them but can’t see them. Too far away from the trail. Which becomes a theme for the day.

Spending too much time looking at feet trying to watch where you step to ensure you don’t trip over on the footpath through the rainforest.

Find a toucan sitting on a branch. You’ve got to look hard through the foliage. Its brightly coloured beak is quite large and struggle to get a clear photo of it. What you see below is the best I can do. Seeing it reminds me of the Guinness adverts of old.

A poisoned dart red frog (nicknamed the blue jeans frog as it has blue legs on its bright body body) is seen but hops off before I can take a decent photo.

This wildlife is a bit elusive and not seeing much. We’ve been walking 2hrs now and nowhere near returning. There’s a lot of walking but not much to see apart from trees and leaves. Dripping in sweat too. Not a pretty sight.

Now 1100hrs and realise we’ve actually left the main signposted trail. Somehow. And now on a tributary trail that isn’t identified on our basic map.

We’re off-piste.

Ask the guide where we are and he points to the top left of the map.

Even I know that’s not right and we’re more towards the bottom right of the map. But on an unmarked trail.

It’s clear he doesn’t know where he is.

Right.

GPS switched on phone. Google Maps shows the blue GPS dot in a sea of green forest. No trails marked obviously. Continue on the side trail for about 20mins. A large tree has fallen over the trail blocking our way.

So.

Retrace our route and go up another side trail. After 10mins that too is blocked by a fallen tree.

Retrace our route back to the first fallen tree and decide that if we can make our way through it then it will lead to the main trail that we should be on.

Ho.

Ho.

Ho.

Walk some more through the heat and humidity. Scramble through and over the fallen tree. Desperately trying not to touch anything lest there are creepy crawlies hiding in nooks and crannies.

That might kill us.

A fork in the trail. Left is another side trail. Straight on is a continuation of the side trail we’re currently on. Take the left fork. And walk for 10mins. Until we see a river in the valley below on our right. If we’re where we think we are, then the river should be on our left and if we keep it to the left will bring us back to the suspension bridge.

Walk some more.

Until another fork in the trail.

Guide hasn’t got a clue where we are now. A further problem is that we can now see that the river that we’ve been following now on our left is flowing in the wrong direction. It should be flowing the way we’re walking. But it’s not.

So that’s that then.

We’re lost!

Have been walking for two and a half hours. On a trail that isn’t shown on our map. Map only shows the four main tourist trails of varying lengths. Somehow, we’ve deviated off the main trail that we were meant to be doing.

We’re not on any of them.

Oh. And we’ve not seen any sodding wildlife for two hours. Bizarrely.

Guide decides we need to retrace our route. He’s right of course. That’s the proper way to do it. But it’s taken two and a half hours to get where we are so, in theory, another two and a half hours back.

In the heat and humidity.

With water supplies dwindling.

Back the way we came. Through and over the fallen tree. Along the muddy paths. With no sodding wildlife to look at. Just trees and leaves.

Oh yes, dear reader, it’s a giddy existence.

After 45mins, find the main trail that we should have been on. For some reason, our guide had taken us left at a junction passing a sign that says, “Do not enter, nature reserve staff only.” We should have turned right at that point to keep on the main trail. Which is another half hour back to the suspension bridge and home.

Fortunately, the rainforest redeems itself slightly as then see a howler monkey high up in the trees resting and soon after a woodpecker hammering away. Always wanted to see a toucan and a woodpecker, so at least a successful walk in that respect.

Finally arrive back at the hotel at 1200hrs. Three and a half hours of walking in the heat and humidity.

A hot sticky mess am I.

Guide has arranged a couple of local taxis to take us to a local restaurant for dinner about 5mins away.

Your life in their hands. In what must be a 30mph zone, we speed along at 50-60mph.

With no seat belts.

Couple of boy racers.

The only thing missing was a handbrake turn in the car park.

75. Border crossing

Thursday, 7 March 2019

Sarapiqui, Costa Rica

 

Some village drunk was singing outside the hotel until the early hours. Another disturbed sleep. Not good as it’s a 0530hrs wake up call.

Still dark and chucking it down with rain as I stir from my hibernation. Public water shuttle speed boat to the mainland full of locals either off to work or returning home after the carnival weekend. Somewhat bumpy as we speed across the Caribbean in the early morning light. Thought the Caribbean was meant to be a nice calm sea. Back breaking on these fibre glass seats where you feel every single jolt as it skims across the waves.

Private mini bus to Sixaola but we’re giving a lift to a young French surfer dood who completely ignores us. Ignorant Frenchie.

Drive through the Chiquita banana plantations. Most of the banana bunches have blue plastic bags around them to protect them from insects and not yet ready for harvesting. Those that are ready are cut and hung on a conveyor system that runs through the plantation to take them to the central packing area and a chilled shipping container.

Arriving at Sixaola, quickly exchange some US Dollars for Cost Rican Colons. In a supermarket down a side street. All above board and fully official. Of course.

The Panama Immigration office is tucked away down a side street and as we’re the only ones there takes no time at all to have passports stamped and fingerprints scanned. This is why we’ve had to get up early. To avoid the queues at the border when the big coaches arrive.

Having waved goodbye to the Panamanian mini-bus, have to walk the few hundred metres across the bridge forming the border and over to Costa Rica, to then pick up a Costa Rican mini-bus. Hot and humid. At each end of the bridge is a contraption which should disinfect all vehicles crossing by spraying them with disinfectant from hoses. Like a glorified car wash. Judging by the state of it though, doesn’t seem to be in operation.

Fortunately beat a crowd off a coach at the Costa Rican immigration office and so stamped in quickly.

More Chiquita banana plantations as we drive along. Costa Rica looking very much like Panama at the moment with poor and basic accommodation. Told this is very rural because of all the plantations. Costa Rica has its own Chiquita port to ship all the bananas over to Europe, and elsewhere for that matter. Plenty of chilled shipping containers stacked high every so often waiting to be filled with bananas.

Arrive soon after lunch at Tirimbina Lodge (https://www.tirimbina.org/). It looked to be one of the worst places we are staying at on the trip but is actually quite clean and comfortable.

Set in a rainforest am expecting lots of mosquitoes. Rather surprisingly though. Not seen any.

Short walk through one of the trails. Only 900m long. But takes 1hr. Necessitates crossing Costa Rica’s longest suspension footbridge. Swinging and a swaying as we go.

Some fool (me) shouts out, “I’m a celebrity, get me out of here!”, because that’s what it reminds us of.

Expecting great things from this walk. We’re in Costa Rica. We’re in the rainforest. We’re in a nature reserve. We’ll be seeing lots and lots of wildlife. Won’t we.

Er.

No.

There’s diddly squat.

Disappointed is an understatement.

It’s just dense green jungle.

Spend most of the time looking at your feet to make sure you’re not going to trip over anything.

Oh. And did I mention the heat and humidity?

A very sweaty TT.

74. Pirates of the Caribbean

Wednesday, 6 March 2019

Bocas del Toro Island, Panama

 

Bang. Bang. Bang. Bang. Bang. Bang. Bang.

Went the drums.

Constantly.

Right next door to hotel.

Until 0100hrs this morning.

No.

Sleep.

Whatsoever.

It wasn’t even music.

Just noise.

Or is that a sign I’m getting old?

Boat trip around the islands to see dolphins, starfish, sloths and a bit of snorkelling.

All before lunch.

Bounce over in the speed boat to ‘Dolphin Bay’. So called because that’s where all the dolphins congregate to catch all the fish that tend to be swept there by the currents.

Not seen a dolphin since Tierra del Fuego. Remember? When my camera memory card was overloaded?

Well I’m all checked and double checked. Am good to go. Ready for that prize winning shot of a dolphin in mid air.

Yes. Can’t wait.

So. There. We. Are.

Bobbing up and down for half an hour.

With. No. Dolphins. In Sight.

Not a sausage.

Oh well.

At least we’ve got Sloth Island to go to. To see all the sloths.

Do see plenty of starfish in the shallow waters by the mangrove islands. Quite startling how many there are.

Arrive Sloth Island.

I’ve got it in my head that sloths are big. So will be easy to see.

They’re not. They’re actually quite small.

Which means they’re difficult to see through the branches and leaves of the dense mangrove trees. We see one. All on its own. Not doing much. Hoping this isn’t going to the be only thing we see, continue purring along the edge of the mangrove island. All of us looking through dense vegetation for that elusive sloth.

Another speedboat is nosied up into a mangrove tree. Its occupants are staring up at a tree with binoculars.

Ah. Ha.

There be a sloth.

Two to be precise. And a baby.

Daddy Sloth is surprisingly quick at climbing down. Has a pee, scratches his bum, and then scurries up to Mummy and Baby Sloth again. And here’s me thinking sloths were slow.

Well, dear reader, I tried to get a photo. You’ll have to judge for yourselves if it’s worthy. But you try focussing on a small thing through branches and leaves in the foreground which screw up the focus.

Excellent lunch on Caranero Island overlooking the Caribbean whilst eating fresh prawns in a garlic sauce. Stop licking your lips. So delicious.

Rather pleasant way to spend a few hours pootling around the Caribbean in a speedboat. Island to island.

No wonder there were so many pirates in the Caribbean. What’s not to like.

And you know why pirates are called pirates?

Because they aaarghh, ah aaarggh.