Monday, 31 December 2018
Danco Island, Antarctica
Really calm seas as we sail to Port Lockroy overnight. Wake up to even better vistas of blue sky, snow capped peaks, glaciers and glass like water. Not a bad way to start the day.
First port of call is Port Lockroy. The first British Antarctica station, imaginatively called, ‘Base A’, the second station was also imaginatively called, ‘Base B’. The British Antarctic group decided that to stake a claim to this bit of Antarctica they needed to set up a post office and there’s been one ever since. A lucky few will be getting, eventually, a postcard from Antarctica. It may be sometime. As the stamps are British, they have to wait for a ship that is going to the Falklands, from where the mail can be transferred to London for distribution. Nigel, our guide, was once based here in the 1990s for 4-5months with just one other colleague for company. He wrote a letter to his wife in December wishing her a happy anniversary in March the following year. She only received the letter the following November, it having taken nearly 11 months, and thought it was for the following March, so 15 months after he’d actually sent it.
The station is now part of the British Antarctic Heritage Trust (http://www.ukaht.org/) and staffed by four volunteers. You would think they were all British. First staff member I speak to is French. Second staff member is Finnish. Finally, staff members 3 & 4 are British. Three females and one French man. Hmmmm.
Board the Zodiac for the transfer to the island and Kenn, one of the guides, greets me with, “You can’t stop smiling can you!”. No. I can’t. It’s unbelievable scenery down here. I am so lucky.
Stepping on to the very small island in the middle of the bay you see the station comprises the original wooden accommodation hut, complete with Union flag flying proudly, another hut which remained a mystery and a Nissen hut, complete with solar panels, which is the new modern accommodation for the staff members.
The original accommodation hut comprises the gift shop (I’ve come all this way and there’s a gift shop!) and museum with rooms left as they were when the base was shut down. Bunk room, dark room for photography, dining room, small bar, weather research room, bathroom (comprising an old tin bath), workshop and a very small toilet (plank of wood with hole and bucket beneath). The kitchen and cupboards still have the original 40s/50s/60s foodstuffs still unopened. Marmite, Branston Pickle, Worcester Sauce, HP Sauce. All sat there still full of contents. Told that anything that was left wasn’t popular. The popular food was consumed. It’s a fascinating slice of history and one that I didn’t know existed. More research required when I return home.
Ask one of the British girls what they do at night after manning the museum and shop. Not a lot. Is the reply. Mainly email. You would need a certain mentality to be down here for a few months. But, admittedly, on a nice sunny day, it is rather spectacular.
Have my photo taken with a Chinese girl who is also British with the Union flag. We’re the only two British passengers on board. I’m 6’7” in my boots. She’s about 5’4”. Most amusing image.
Cross the bay by Zodiac to see the penguins and a few seals. Penguins are so comical the way they waddle. They have penguin runs which are like open tunnels in the snow. Given the depth of the snow, all you see is a little head bobbing up and down.
Sail through the Neumayer Channel enroute to Danco Island. It’s one of the most beautiful channels in Antarctica. I’d like to say I saw it. But. I just can’t help have an afternoon nap. All this fresh air you see.
Wake up just as we arrive at Danco Island.
WOW.
What a view.
There are lots of little mini icebergs floating down the channel. I’d heard these clatter the hull on the way up and we’ve actually been delayed getting here because of the quantity of the larger icebergs. No wind this afternoon. Ideal weather conditions for the landing. Two options. Walk up the little hill to see penguins or walk up big hill to see penguins. Choose the big hill. There’s about 2ft of snow to navigate through. Make sure I’m at the back of the line of Chinese walking up big hill. I’ll let them compact the snow to make it easier. We zig-zag up the hill. Nigel, the guide at the top, tells me his GPS says it’s only 155m/500ft high. WHAT?!?! Feel like I’ve climbed about 2,000ft! With all this polar gear on and exertion, I’m sweating buckets. I know the first rule of cold weather travelling is not to sweat but that went out the window about half an hour ago!
The views from the plateau at the top of the hill/really high mountain are insane. It’s awesome. You can’t describe the view so have a look at the YouTube panoramic videos below. This will only give you about 10% of what I experienced. There’s just too much landscape to capture it all on photo. Manage to escape the chattering Chinese and find a peaceful spot. Hear a rumble of thunder but quickly realise it’s one of the many glaciers calving. You should go to Danco Island at some point. It’s stunning.
As I’m looking down at the icebergs in the water below, see what looks like three penguins swimming. It’s only when I zoom in 100X on my camera that I can see that it’s not penguins but the sea kayakers. That’s how small they are. If you look on the panorama photo below, you’ll see a yellow jacket on the right edge. Below that just to the left is the water below. Can you make out 3 dots? Well, that’s the sea kayakers. That gives you an indication of the scale. It’s mind blowing!
On the way down, another guide, Falk, tells me that his trick is to be the last off the hill/really high mountain so you can have a few minutes peace and quiet and take it all in. There’s 60 Chinese above me so that’s not going to happen but I do sit with him for a few minutes taking it all in. The silence. The serenity. The sights. The sea. One of the most memorable days of travelling!
Quick Zodiac cruise around the icebergs enroute to the ship. It’s awesome.
Before dinner, there is the option to take a polar plunge. Jump off the landing gantry into the icy sea attached to a safety harness. I do my own polar plunge and come out of a hot shower onto deck 4 in just shirt sleeves to watch the real thing. The Chinese and the young American nephew are taking it in their stride. And then. Mr Oz makes an appearance. He’s 72. Think Grandpa Potts (Lionel Jeffries) out of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. I know he’s reading this. He jumps in. He immediately reaches for the landing gantry.
I think he’s having a heart attack.
He climbs out.
“Bloody hell, bloody hell.”, I can hear him say. I start chuckling as it’s quite funny.
The crew are on standby to give each participant a shot of vodka.
Mr Oz is offered one.
“F*** that! I need a hot shower!!” is the retort.
Recount all these details over the New Year’s Eve dinner. So funny. A great evening had by all!!
With the wonders of modern technology I’m able to have a video chat with friends back in the UK. I’m onboard a ship in Antarctica video chatting with people in the UK. How times have changed since I first started travelling 30 years ago., Back then it was letters and the post!
Post-dinner entertainment is a quiz and scavenge hunt. We decide to call our team of 5, ‘Bloody hell, bloody hell’ in memory of Mr Oz’s polar plunge. As I’ve climbed a hill/really high mountain, very good natured American nephew does all the running around whilst I manage the process. Interestingly, he’s studying aeronautical engineering and has been involved with a Hyperloop prototype pod whilst at university and run it on Elon Musk’s Hyperloop test tube. Very interesting to listen to!
Midnight approaches and on the stroke of the New Year, we all raise our champagne glasses, toast everyone and everything and welcome 2019 with the ship’s horn blasting out across the sea. The year starts with everyone dancing to YMCA.
An awesome end to 2018 and a brilliant start to 2019.
I can now say that I have been in Antarctica two years in a row.
So very lucky!
