Category Archives: Antarctica to Alaska

120. Pocahontas

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Sunday, 21 April 2019

Williamsburg, Virginia, USA

 

Happy Easter.

Had another eggcellent day full of eggciting things listening to eggsperts eggsplain and eggspresing eggstraordinary eggsamples of eggsplosive battles.

No eggageration.

As you will recall from yesterday’s blog, Williamsburg was the basis for leading up to American Independence. Yorktown, a few miles away on the river, is where Independence was, in effect, finally won.

The observant amongst you will remember from yesterday, that the Declaration of Independence was signed on 4 July 1776. Yet, this didn’t actually mean independence.

This was merely a wish.

A desire.

It took the American War of Independence, over 8 years, to finally and formally achieve this desire with the Treaty of Paris in 1784.

However, it effectively came into being when the British were defeated at the Siege of Yorktown in October 1781. This was the last major battle of the American Revolution.

What we can see today is the British defences, the infamous redoubts 9 and 10, which were won by the Americans and the French, which led to the defeat of the British. The guide asks if anyone in the group is British. Just me. She says, “I thought so, I could tell.” Just how I like it.

Very interesting talk on the play of battle which I won’t bore you with.

Yorktown is much smaller than Williamsburg but still has recreated 17th and 18th century houses. There’s an air of Hampshire about the place. Very quaint, very relaxed and very scenic. This is about as far removed from Florida as you can get. And if you haven’t guessed by now, not too enamoured with Florida. It’s a beautiful Spring day, perfect temperature, sunny and blue sky. I could almost be in England.

House sitter texts to ask if I was expecting any Robin Hood hats, a skeleton and butterfly wings to be dropped off at my house. Someone has deposited a box of said stuff by my door.

It goes without saying that I have no need for butterfly wings…

Across the other side of the peninsula is Jamestown. This is where, on 13 May 1607, 104 men and boys landed to settle in America. The first permanent settlement by the British in America.

Staggering to think that modern America we see today originated from that one small settlement. There’s not a great deal to see and a lot is left to the imagination. Mainly used as a tobacco plantation.

The first few years were seemingly quite tough and in 1610 there was what is known as the ‘starving time’, following years of drought. Told that it got to the point that they were digging up the recently deceased to eat.

Cannibalism was necessary.

Only 60 of the 300 odd settlers survived this period.

In 1610, the Powhatan chief’s daughter, Pocahontas, married the English settler, John Rolfe, changed her name to Rebecca and they subsequently sailed to England, whereupon Pocahontas was introduced to London society as a ‘civilised savage’. She died as she sailed down the Thames on her way back to Jamestown and is buried in Gravesend, England.

Bet you didn’t know that, did you??

Over the years the British settlers had gotten along with the native American tribe, the Powhatans, and traded with them. However, in 1622, a load of Powhatans killed 347 settlers in one night, which amounted to a third of the population.

Notwithstanding all those troubles, Jamestown grew and became the capital of the colony of Virginia until 1699. Which is when Williamsburg took over.

Within the old Colonial town of Williamsburg, there are a number of 18th century inns which continue the traditions of the 18th century. Dinner tonight is at the 18th century ‘Kings Arms’.

By candlelight.

The dining rooms are only lit by candlelight to mimic what it would be like in the 18th century. Quite cozy.

With original sized napkins. About the size of a table cloth.

Staff wear traditional clothes.

Dear vegans, I can confirm that the venison, rabbit and duck game pie was excellent and washed down with an equally excellent pint of real ale. Very tasty.

Very interesting few days.

119. It’s all about the tea

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Saturday, 20 April 2019

Williamsburg, Virginia, USA

Colonial Williamsburg. Former capital of the Virginia Colony. Founded in 1632 as Middle Plantation when the nearby Jamestown was first settled by the British in 1607. Jamestown remained as the capital until 1699 when Williamsburg took over and remained capital until 1780. The historic town has been restored and recreated and is apparently the world’s largest living history museums. Wouldn’t you know.

It’s a cross between Buckler’s Hard, Blists Hill and Beamish. The 18th century buildings have been restored with a few originals. It’s fascinating insight into American and British history. There’s many ‘ye olde’ shops and crafts being demonstrated such as making wigs, cabinets, bricks, carpentry, blacksmith, silversmith, tinsmith and the like. Each volunteer dressed in colonial clothing and using traditional colonial methods to make their crafts.

Virginia got its name from the Virginia Company, chartered by James I, whose goal was to establish settlements on the coast of America.

Inside the old Capitol building given a performance by actors as a throwback to the build up to Independence. Very entertaining and informative.

So.

Here in a nutshell.

Just for you, dear reader, is a precis of 200 years of American history leading to independence.

In 1607, settlers arrived at Jamestown and created the capital of the Colony of Virginia, on the river a few miles away from Williamsburg. In 1632, Middle Plantation was founded which later became Williamsburg.

In 1699, after a fire burnt down much of Jamestown, and because Williamsburg was at a slightly higher elevation, the capital transferred there.

Later generations of former settlers became concerned by the British Parliament setting taxation on the colonies in the 1700s, without representation of those colonies. In the 1760s, Acts such as the Sugar Act, Quartering Act and the so called Townshend Acts led to further discord in the colonies.

The final nail in the coffin was perhaps when Parliament introduced the Tea Act in 1773. The objective being to help the British East India Company sell its tea to the colonies (as it had a massive surplus in its warehouses in London and was in financial difficulties). Rather than the colonies using smuggled Dutch tea, which was cheaper.

This led to the so called ‘Boston Tea Party’ when angry colonists boarded East India ships in Boston harbour and threw the tea overboard.

Which led to the British getting a bit tetchy about seeing all that tea being discarded.

You know how much we like our tea.

In doing so, tensions were raised between the colonies and the British and led to the American War of Independence starting in April 1775. Caused by the British attempting to disarm the Massachusetts militia which led to militia forces besieging Boston forcing a British evacuation in March 1776.

Which led to the colonies issuing their Declaration of Independence on 4 July 1776.

At the same time, the Virginia House of Burgesses were meeting here in Williamsburg, in the very room where I stand, and by their Fifth Convention between May and July 1776, declared Virginia an independent state.

And there you have it. A cheat’s guide to American Independence.

Like the BBC, I like to entertain, educate and inform.

Williamsburg today is a really nice place to visit and is highly recommended. Broad tree lined street with 18th and 19th century properties either side. At the other end of the town from the Capitol building (which was rebuilt in the 1930s), is the William and Mary University, founded in 1693, and educated three presidents (Jefferson, Monroe and Tyler). After Harvard University, it’s the second oldest university in the USA.

The other major building in the town is the Governor’s Palace, completed in 1722. Many swords, muskets and pistols decorate the main entrance hall.

Having not studied American pre-20th century history at school, it’s been a very informative day and now wanting to know more.

After the drudgery of Florida, it’s been an excellent and educational few days.

118. Evacuate to the nearest safe space

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Friday, 19 April 2019

Williamsburg, Virginia, USA

 

Grim, grey day as I open the curtains. It was to be expected as weather forecast on my phone app showed it being rainy and cloudy.

Another 500 mile drive today up to Williamsburg, Virginia.

Thought it would be dull and uneventful.

Weather forecast on the radio said it was going to be stormy and wet.

Receive an email from hotel at my destination in Williamsburg telling me that the National Weather Service has issued a flash flood warning from 1300hrs today.

Great.

Driving north up Interstate 95 minding my own business and weather forecasts on the radio have been upgraded to severe weather warnings. Patchy rain enroute but mainly dry, thankfully. Don’t fancy driving 500 miles in atrocious weather like I had from Dallas to San Antonio.

Listen to a song on the radio. It’s nearing the end. Suddenly stops playing and what I think is a new song starts playing. Sounds like the old dial up tone for the internet. Assume it must be some 90s song. Then there’s a ‘blaargh…blaargh…blaargh’ type sound followed by ‘This is a severe weather warning for XYZ counties. Expect high winds, heavy winds and debris.’ Followed by another alarm sound ‘blaargh…blaargh…blaargh’.

Crikey. Thought I.

What I assume to be an emergency service has cut into the live FM radio transmission.

Continue on my way.

Matrix signs on the interstate all say, ‘Severe weather warning. Expect high winds, heavy rain and debris.’

Quite what I’m going to do if there’s another massive storm enroute, I don’t know.

Continue keeping an eye on the clouds. Brighter in the north but darker to the west, south and east. At least I appear to be heading in the right direction.

Hour later. Same thing happens on the radio. An emergency ‘blaargh…blaargh…blaargh’ insert on the FM broadcast. Repeating the same message about a severe weather warning.

Now mid afternoon.

There’s lots of accidents on the interstate today. Must have passed about a dozen. Not actually seen many accidents in 3,000 miles of driving in the USA the past few weeks but today is a crash every 50 or so miles. And it’s not even raining that hard, if at all. One such crash has caused a 30 minute delay according to sat-nav which diverts me off the interstate across country roads to rejoin the interstate about 10 miles ahead. To avoid delays.

Driving in open countryside when there’s another emergency ‘blaargh…blaargh…blaargh’ insert on the FM broadcast.

Except.

This one says, ‘Tornado warning for XYZ counties until 2.51pm.’

Oh crap.

Now.

Although I know exactly where I am because of the sat-nav, haven’t a clue which county I’m in. Or near.

FM broadcast resumes and the DJ comes on and says that because of the tornado warning they’re now going live to the weather service TV broadcast as the tornado warning is in their radio broadcast area.

As I have a strong radio signal assume therefore that I’m in the tornado area.

Oh crap.

Some meteorologist is obviously explaining to TV viewers, who can see his screen showing radar, that a rotation (start of a possible tornado from the clouds above) has been spotted on the radar and it’s tracking at 60mph in a north east direction.

The direction I’m headed.

The cloud above is noticeably darker.

Actually a bit worrying. As I’m listening to the tornado warning, I’ve now rejoined the interstate and putting my foot down as I can see brighter cloud ahead in the distance.

But.

Have dark clouds to my west. The tornado is tracking from there. Am I going to be driving into its path?

Weatherman is now saying that it’s likely a tornado will form and is tracking through XYZ counties and that if you live in XYZ towns then you have 11 minutes to evacuate to a safe space and take shelter as the tornado is tracking your way. And further explains that if you live in a trailer, try and find a brick shelter. Can you imagine if you lived there and heard that warning?

This is rather worrying.

Have no idea where I am relative to the track of the tornado and which county I’m currently in. Clouds are getting darker to my west and am now razzing up the interstate at a great rate of knots.

Only one thing for it. Ring mission control back home. Little sis assists in finding out where I am and where the tornados are. Apparently I’m north of the track and should be OK. The tornado warnings, and there’s now three warnings, are behind me.

Phew.

Continue on my way.

About 20 miles from Williamsburg, after a long drive, driving along pleasant country roads there’s another emergency alarm on the FM broadcast, ‘Tornado warning for XYZ towns in Virginia.’

Now.

I recognise those names because that’s the general direction I’m headed.

Oh crap.

Again.

Fortunately, as I know where I am relative to those towns I can determine from the map that I’m not on the track of the tornado.

Phew!

Finally arrive Williamsburg without having been blown away and check in to the Williamsburg Inn (https://www.colonialwilliamsburghotels.com/accommodations/williamsburg-inn/). Exactly the sort of place you need to arrive at after a long drive like that.

And relax.

With a welcome glass of champagne.

Ah yes.

This’ll do nicely.

117. North and South

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Thursday, 18 April 2019

Charleston, South Carolina, USA

 

For those that remember the 1980s TV series, starring Patrick Swayze, called ‘North and South’, and for those that have seen the film ‘The Notebook’, you will be delighted to hear that a visit to Boone Hall Plantation and the Avenue of the Oaks, is well worth it. They were filmed here.

88 oaks were planted in the 1740s and now form the central avenue to the hall. An impressive sight. The Spanish Moss dripping from the branches resembles large cobwebs.

The hall as stands today dates back to 1936 but the first hall was founded in 1681. The other incarnations, made of wood, blew away in a hurricane.

This hall is built of bricks. Bricks were one of main products of the plantation along with cotton, indigo and, surprisingly, rice.

Slaves made the bricks and at one point in the 1850s, 85 slaves made 4 million bricks per year, using clay from the adjacent river.

Just think about that for a moment.

85 slaves making 4 million bricks a year.

Outside at the front of the house are a number of slave cabins. Bare single rooms with fireplace. Apparently it was common to build slave cabins at the front of the property as a sign of wealth. Inside the slave cabins are excellent displays of what life was like, as well as copies of bill posters advertising slave sales.

Given a display of slave music and singing by a ‘gullah’. A local black person. Her great-grandmother was a slave. The slaves used code and she sings some slave song about going down to the river, which is code for ‘we’re going to escape by the river’. As she sings, most of the black school children who are watching join in. Interestingly, all the whites in the audience don’t sing as they don’t know the song, or its connotations.

The plantation had its own small dock on the river to transport the cotton, rice, bricks and indigo. Surprised to learn that they grew rice in the area and it was apparently introduced by an African slave who showed a local how to grow it.

Fascinating insight into the slave trade.

Out in the harbour is Fort Sumter. Where the American Civil War started. The southern states relied on slaves to do the manual labour in the plantations. The north wasn’t so reliant on slaves as it was industrialised and more a manufacturing economy. Abraham Lincoln elected President was the catalyst as he opposed the slave trade and thus in December 1860, South Carolina seceded from the Union. Ten other states soon followed and with South Carolina, formed the Confederate States of America.

Although South Carolina had seceded from the Union, Federal troops maintained a presence in the state at various forts. Which angered the state as it argued that it should control its own military installations. Whoever controlled the forts, controlled the trade route into Charleston and in April 1861, the Confederate army attacked Fort Sumter. Within four days it was evacuated by the Federal troops and the Confederates subsequently held it for the next four years of the civil war.

After the attack, President Lincoln issued a call to arms to put down the Southern rebellion.

And so began the American Civil War.

Eventually won by the Unionists of the North.

You’re still learning stuff on this blog aren’t you.

Back in Charleston take advantage of one of the many horse and carriage rides. Very pleasant way to see Charleston. Clip clopping along like Steptoe and Son.

Charleston is nice.

Very, very nice.

Well worth a visit. Not like the urban sprawl of Florida.

It’s explained that north of Broad Street it’s ‘the haves’, whilst south of Broad Street it’s ‘the have a lot more’. Oh my. He’s not wrong. There’s some impressive houses here. Built in the 19th century on what was marshland.

Sit next to a couple from Alabama. He’s a NASA rocket scientist. She is very tactile and keeps patting my arm as she talks with me. The more she pats my arm, the more hubbie hugs her. He’s not liking it and doesn’t engage. I listen to her a lot. She’s got a rattle on.

Busy in town tonight in search of a good restaurant. Concierge recommends Hanks for its amazing seafood. Most of the restaurants I pass have queues of people waiting outside on the pavement for a table. Queues of 10 to 30 waiting. Never seen anything like it. There’s a queue at Hanks but that’s for a table. You can walk straight in if you sit at a big long communal table. As I do.

Cracking place and quickly served the freshest scallops.

Melt in the mouth.

116. Fancy a shag?

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Wednesday, 17 April 2019

Charleston, South Carolina, USA

 

Another scoot up the interstate through Georgia, which has far too many speed traps, to South Carolina. Much more temperate climate now. Gone is the sizzling heat of Florida.

Sign on petrol station door says, ‘In Honor [sic] and Reverence of Easter Sunday, we will not be selling beer or wine…on April 21st’.

Deary me.

Noticing a lot more churches about.

Waitress at lunch asks where I’m headed. Explain my trip. She’s interested in Antarctica and asks to see some photographs as she’s a Biology student.

She asks how I can afford this trip. Explain that I do work. To which she replies, “But I work too and I can’t afford to do that.”

Do I bother explaining the difference in pay between a teenage waitress and someone with 30 years’ experience in his chosen profession?

Arrive at the Grand Bohemian Hotel (https://www.kesslercollection.com/bohemian-charleston/), in the historic centre of Charleston. Nice. Very nice.

A colleague emails to tell me that I must walk into a bar and ask a woman for a shag.

Apparently, it’s a dance.

It tickled him no end when he visited. He kept asking women for a shag but was eventually sussed out by a local who had been to the UK and understood what he thought of as shagging.

He’s reading this now and giggling to himself.

115. We have lift off

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Tuesday, 16 April 2019

Titusville, Florida, USA

 

As I have a million and one bits of admin to catch up on this is a quick entry. They say a picture paints a thousand words so look at photos below.

Toured NASA’s Kennedy Space Centre at Cape Canaveral. It’s brilliant.

Bus tour of the launch pads to see where the Space X Heavy Falcon launched from last week. The Vehicle Assembly Building is the largest single story building in the world. The US flag painted on its side is 21 storeys high. They transport the assembled rockets from that building on a transportation system that goes along at 1mph along a compacted gravel track to the launch pad. They use Cape Canaveral as the launches go over the sea.

There’s another Saturn V rocket (used for the Apollo launches) but as I’ve already detailed that in the Houston blog, won’t bore you here again.

Told that in the 1960s, they built a control building which had automatic sliding doors. One Monday morning after it had just opened, the security man walked in and found an alligator inside the building entrance. It had activated the sliding doors from outside over the weekend and had been trapped inside. They had to change the activation sensitivity.

Space Shuttle Atlantis is on display. It’s mesmerising. Shown a really good film of the Shuttle program and then the screen suddenly disappears to reveal Atlantis behind. Which causes a lot of clapping from the Americans. Hubble Space Telescope on display as well as the smallest satellite launched from the very final shuttle mission. The satellite, called ‘picosat’ isn’t much bigger than my mobile phone (see photo).

The Shuttle Launch Experience is actually quite good. Strapped into seats to experience the sounds and vibration of a launch. Astronaut tells us it’s the nearest thing to reality. Quite a clever effect as they release the fuel tanks and you’re suddenly in space. The floor moves forward down suddenly, from being in a backward position, and for a split second it feels like you’re momentarily weightless. Like going over the top of a rollercoaster, I imagine.

Extensive research and development is ongoing for a manned mission to Mars.

Hopefully it will be in my lifetime.

114. Are you over 55?

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Monday, 15 April 2019

Titusville, Florida, USA

 

Roasting hot and humid even at breakfast. If it’d have been a summer’s day in the UK, the headlines would be ‘Phew, what a scorcher!’

Check out and woman asks where I’m headed. Alaska, say I. And explain am travelling from Antarctica to Alaska. She replies, “Oh, I’ve travelled everywhere too. (pause) Not abroad though.”

You can imagine my thoughts.

Another slooowwww 2.5hr drive through the keys to the mainland and glad finally to be back on the interstate. Nothing but urban sprawl for a few hours until north of Miami. Southern Florida is just one big holiday camp. Not impressed.

Brief stop in Boca Raton and had hoped to meet up with mate’s sister who lives there. Last met when she was the bridesmaid and I was the best man at his wedding. And that’s 20 odd years ago. Sadly, we don’t meet due to her work commitments and me having to head north.

As I drive along see a few cars ahead that the passenger in one vehicle is sticking both arms out of the window and giving the finger to a truck and trailer. It’s only as I approach truck and trailer that I understand why. It’s Trump supporter’s truck and trailer with Trump stuff on and a big sign saying, ‘Build the Wall’ and ‘Make America Great Again’.

Head off the interstate once at the southern end of Cape Canaveral and drive through Cocoa Beach. Seems a bit more upmarket here than Key West. Styled as the Space Coast because of its proximity to NASA’s Kennedy Spaceport on Cape Canaveral.

Nip in to NASA to buy tickets for tomorrow. She asks if I’m over 55!!!!!!!!!

Now, dear reader, for those that don’t know me, I’d like to think I’ve got boyish good looks (there’s people snorting with laughter at this description). It has been known for people I work with to think I’m 10 years younger than I actually am.

Given my youthful, fair faced features.

So, you can imagine my disgust at being asked this question. Now you might think this is a one off.

But.

It has become something of a worrying trend!

Since arriving in America, I have been asked a few times now if I’m over 55, and on one occasion 62!

Harumph!

Couple of nights at the Holiday Inn Kennedy Space Centre (https://www.ihg.com/holidayinn/hotels/us/en/titusville/tixsr/hoteldetail) in lovely Titusville. The only reason for staying here is because it’s close to NASA. And I get more points.

Having a beer and waiting for food to arrive in the bar, the barman calls the waiter urgently to come out to the car park as he’s seen something. Worryingly, we all assume there are car thieves. Fellow diner goes out to investigate too and soon returns with, “Well, there are no cars and no guns so assume it’s OK.” No guns. Jolly good. Would that be your first thought in a pub car park in the UK? That there are no guns? Exactly. But it’s the way of life here. Waiter returns with the news that it’s a raccoon in the trees.

As I’m about to leave, a big bloke walks in. He’s 6’5”. Wears a bowler hat. Long bleached blond shoulder length hair. He’s got boobs. Carries a handbag. And is wearing high heels and a black dress.

One word.

Bizarre.

113. Gentle Ben

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Sunday, 14 April 2019

Key West, Florida, USA

Come on then.

Who can remember the American TV series from the 1960s/70s called ‘Gentle Ben’. Set in the Everglades and featuring a young boy and his ‘pet’ bear. They used to ride around on Dad’s airboat.

Remember?

I do.

And ever since those childhood days, have always wanted to zoom about the Everglades on an airboat.

Well, dear reader, after 40 odd years, my wish comes true.

There’s one long straight road through the Everglades. With water, trees and bushes along the wayside. Bit like Norfolk really.

Except Norfolk doesn’t have road signs saying, ‘Beware Panthers Crossing’, or ‘Do not feed the alligators’.

Bizarrely, in the middle of nowhere, is what is considered to be America’s smallest post office, in Ochopee. Formerly a pump house but converted to a post office in the 1950s. Can’t see that it would have much business. It is literally miles from anywhere.

In search of something to eat pull in to the Miccosukee Indian Reservation village. A restaurant and shop is advertised. Only wanting a quick sandwich ask where the restaurant is. It’s US$15 to enter the village and the restaurant’s in there. I am told.

But I don’t want to look at a touristy native Indian village. Just want a quick sandwich. She is told.

That’ll be US$15. Is the reply.

Really? Can I not just go and grab a sandwich? Common sense dictates so.

But no. It’s US15 to enter as you might have a quick sandwich and then go looking at the village.

Ask where the next place is to get a bit to eat and she says Miami. About 50 miles away. I know she’s lying. She knows she’s lying.

Depart. Muttering under my breath.

Drive a few hundred yards down the road and find a restaurant. Run by the same Indian tribe.

Miami my arse.

In search of an airboat ride. It’s Sunday afternoon. It’s busy with tourists. I’ve not booked anything in advance. First few have no availability and there’s a wait of 2hrs at one.

Hmmm.

Channelling my inner ‘Gentle Ben’ may have to wait another few years.

Finally, the penultimate airboat station has immediate availability. And only US26. Had been looking at some rides at US$150 which is a bit steep. But they were for smaller airboats. This is a 25 seater. Huge thing.

And powerful.

It’s brilliant.

Slow going through the access channels whilst you spot alligators, birds, turtles and fish.

But then.

The open water of the Everglades. It’s only a few inches deep in parts but the thrill of drifting sideways at speed is brilliant. The driver sits atop a chair that looks like a tennis umpire’s chair. Beneath which is the very loud engine which powers the air propeller behind.

Blows the cobwebs away that does!

Exhilarating.

Young lad driver tells us he can drive anything, planes, boats, trucks but can’t spell. He left school at 17 and has been working on the airboats ever since. This is his life now. Not been out of Florida.

Now for a 3-4hr drive to Key West. The final 90 mile drive down the keys takes 2.5hrs. It’s slow going. Had imagined that Key West was a quaint upmarket fishing village. Oh no. My senses are alerted as I drive down. It’s single carriageway most of the way through heavily developed and built up areas. Shops, restaurants and boat places line the main road with residential houses developed in the side roads of the various keys.  It’s pretty much 90 miles of urban sprawl. Apart from the long bridges. And I do mean long.

The road is a few feet above the water level in places and wonder how they cope with storm surges and the like. Keep seeing signs for ‘Evacuation Route’ and ‘Shelter’. Sunday afternoon traffic slow going and for the first time am getting slightly bored of driving in the USA. There’s nothing really scenic about it. Just continuous urban development.

Not what I had anticipated at all and somewhat disappointed.

Was thinking that I could stay a day in Key West but after eventually arriving and having a quick drive around decide that there’s nothing really to interest me. Given that I’m not into heat, humidity, fishing, beaches or watersports. Would be OK if you were, I suppose. The edge of Key West is like any other American town, chain restaurants, shopping centres, car dealerships and the like. It’s only when you go into the old centre that you finally see some old clapboard, pastel coloured houses. After half an hour of driving around have decided I’ll not stop more than one night.

But before I find the hotel. The real reason for coming to Key West. It’s the southernmost point of continental USA. This is a trip within a trip. The main trip, as you know, is Antarctica to Alaska. But this side trip is from the southernmost point to one of the northernmost points of the USA, Prudhoe Bay. Even this late in the afternoon, there’s a queue for photos at the marker post but as am in need of a cold beer, can’t be bothered waiting so a quick snap in between posing tourists has to do.

Hotel Ocean’s Edge (https://www.oceansedgekeywest.com/) is just what you need after a long day’s drive.

Or so I thought.

Nice room with views of the sunset over the marina. Wander over to the open air restaurant overlooking the marina.

Order food from an Uzbekistani waiter.

By coincidence, sun sets, it gets dark, restaurant lights come on, excellent plate of fish is served. Quickly followed by a plague of flying insects. There’s a complete swarm over the whole restaurant where the bright table lights are. There’s flying insects landing in my food, in my beer, in my hair, on my clothes. It’s dreadful. Restaurant turn the lights down and put the lights on bright in the access walkway so most of the flying insects buzz off to the bright lights. There’s still a few flying around and in the gloom of my table have to pick flying insects out of the food that have landed and got stuck.

Having spent three months travelling through the jungles of South and Central America and only having three (unbelievably) mosquito bites, now find that I’ve got a dozen or so on my ankles, notwithstanding wearing socks, and one on my wrist. So what was meant to be a nice relaxing dinner has actually turned into me being the meal.

Fed up with heat, humidity and things that can bite, am now heading to the cooler climes of the north.

Touring Taurean’s natural habitat.

112. Date night

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Saturday, 13 April 2019

Cape Coral, Florida, USA

 

Watch the Weather Channel whilst having breakfast. Big storms forecast over the route I’ve just driven: Texas, Louisiana, Georgia, Alabama. Large hailstones the size of baseballs predicted and tornado warnings in force. Good job I’m not in the middle of that. Later learn that there was devastating tornado in Texas, close to where I was driving only a few days ago.

Scoot down the Insterstate to Fort Myers and the winter homes of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford.

Enroute, see a ‘Trump Shop’ set up in a tent by the roadside. Told that Florida is a ‘red’ state (Republican) and that there’s a lot of customers for their Trump branded garments. Am also seeing a lot more Confederate flags flying down this way.

Edison visited Fort Myers in the late 19th century and bought some land to build a winter home. Ford used to work for Edison before setting up the Ford Motor Company and subsequently became friends. Ford was a regular visitor to Edison’s home in Fort Myers and when the next door house became available, Ford bought it.

Everybody needs good neighours.

Having been to Vanderbilt’s house, and others, in Newport, Rhode Island, with their massive stone built mansions, the Edison and Ford winter homes are quite small and modest in comparison.

Nice setting, right on the river front with a pier that stretched 1,500ft into the river to enable Edison’s electric powered boat to travel up and down the river.

A few years later with their mutual friend, Firestone (as in tyres), they developed a botanical laboratory with the intent of developing a rubber tree suitable for the American climate so that they could process rubber in America rather than import it, and use it in the manufacture of Firestone tyres. The botanical laboratory still stands today, as it was a 100 years ago. Outside is a big Banyan tree (known as the walking tree) which had been grown by them but later decided that it was too slow to grow and the rubber it produced wasn’t suitable for their needs.

Ford’s garage has a few Model T pick up trucks and cars on display. A pick up truck is so called because in the old days they were often purchased by mail and the new owner would have to go to the local rail depot in order to ‘pick up’ his truck. You learn stuff on this blog.

Interesting to be told that Edison didn’t actually invent the lightbulb. He merely perfected the filament part of it.

Short drive over the river to Cape Coral.

To meet Miss Germany.

The evening starts with champagne…

111. Long drive

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Friday, 12 April 2019

Lake City, Florida, USA.

 

500 mile drive.

Four States: Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida.

Flat.

Featureless.

Interstate 10 East.

All the way.

Sat nav at one point tells me, “Continue on Interstate 10 for 291 miles”. No other directions needed. Nothing in between.

Easy driving though.

Pull off to a small village called Holt for lunch in a local diner. Everyone in the place is clinically, morbidly obese. America has a problem. Stop serving such big portions for starters (excuse the pun).

Part of the problem is the preponderance of chain restaurants selling pile it high crap food.

Staying overnight at a motorway junction motel, Comfort Suite (https://www.choicehotels.com/florida/lake-city/comfort-suites-hotels/fl990). Can hear the bloke next door’s conversation. Walls are thin.

You’re probably wondering why I would drive 500 miles non stop and stay at a motorway junction hotel, with another 300 miles non stop tomorrow.

Well, dear reader, have a hot date tomorrow night.

Miss Germany. I’m on my way.