Minsk, Belarus
27 July 2013
I knew it was going to be a sleepless night on the train. I left it to about half midnight before trying to go to sleep. It’s hot and stuffy so prod the provodnitsa and show her the translation of “too hot”. Obligingly, she switches on the AC and soon find that I need all the blankets on me as it’s like being in a blast chiller now. Train is very noisy, very rocking and a rolling and there’s far too many annoying squeaks emanating from various places. Just about dozed off when my phone rings. It’s 0130hrs my time. It’s my brother-in-law. He never rings so there must be an emergency, especially as my sister has nipped over to Paris for the day on Eurostar. My first question is “What’s wrong?”. Sister is stuck on Eurostar somewhere in France due to electrical fault and she’s been told they won’t be into St Pancras until the early hours of tomorrow morning – some 6-7hrs delay. Brother-in-law wants to know the best way into St Pancras by car to pick her up. Ring sister. Sounds like she’s thoroughly fed up with the delays. So there we are. Both of us stuck on a train somewhere but, despite her delay, I bet she’s more comfortable than I am. I later find out she arrived home in Lincoln at 0440hrs after a 3hr drive from London. Still can’t sleep an hour later at 0230hrs so ring brother-in-law to see what the latest is. He’s decided to drive rather than catch a train from Peterborough for the simple reason that he’s left his wallet at home and has no means to pay for anything. And still I can’t sleep – it’s a long trek down that corridor to the toilet. You know the feeling when you can’t get to sleep because there’s just that annoying little amount left to squeeze out…..but not quite enough yet to warrant a full scale get out of bed and walk down the corridor…..well I have that. Realise I’ve now entered Belarus for the simple reason my mobile phone provider has changed and also the time with it. I’ve gained an extra hour in bed which I hadn’t anticipated. At some point around sunrise I must have drifted off as my alarm wakes me up half an hour from Minsk. Grab a steaming hot tea from the samovar served by a smiling and friendly provodnitsa – the same one I was translating with last night – it’s so Russian to be served in a glass and pewter cup. I was last in Minsk 3 years ago travelling on the overnight train from Warsaw to Moscow and we had a 1hr platform stop but at 1am in the morning I stuck to my cabin. And here we are again, but travelling north to south. Change about £150 worth of Russian Roubles into Belarus Roubles and walk out a millionaire. My wallet is bulging under the strain. Very early check in at hotel and crash out until lunch catching up on necessary sleep. Open the bathroom door and find it’s like a crime scene with forensic tape everywhere strapped across the bath, WC and basin. It reads in three languages “Disinfection is made”. Well at least I won’t be catching foot & mouth. An orientation tour is required so jump on the red tour bus – you know, the one where you can hop on and hop off – ubiquitous in every city. Well this was a hop on for 2hrs flat in a hot, sweaty, stuffy bus and hop off at the end of the tour. There’s lots of government buildings in Minsk. It’s their top tourist attraction along with numerous Olympic training centres (I bet you didn’t know that Minsk has Europe’s largest ice hockey arena) and residential developments. Not entirely convinced there’s going to be a lot of places I can walk into for further scrutiny and quite glad to hop off again 2hrs later for some fresh air. Say goodbye to the Ukrainian family I was sitting next to. Mum was doing her Mum thing and pushing teenage son to practice his English on me. He’s actually rather good and I give the thumbs up. Parents proud. My room is above a wedding disco in the restaurant below. Thud thud thud goes the beat. Another sleepless night beckons.