Rutenga, Masvingo, Zimbabwe
24 September 2013
Arrive Bannockburn station in the early hours. Very small station in the middle of nowhere judging by the hour’s drive along Zimbabwean strip roads to the main metalled road. Overhear one of the Canadians telling the train manager to put them on another mini-bus, “I don’t want to be near those two!” pointing to his fellow Canadian travelling companions. It’s My Little Warthog and wife. All is not well in the Canadian camp it seems.
Elderly Canadian woman asks if the village is named after the famous battle of Bannockburn. She turns to me and says “That’s a bit before your time.”. She prods her fan in my ribs when I cheekily ask, “Yes……but was it before your time?”
Cheeky young man.
Nearly 3hrs drive to Great Zimbabwe. First hour along strip roads. Not quite dirt track. Two strips of tarmac about a foot wide and a car width apart. In theory you drive on the tarmac strips. Except they’re in poor condition so often have to drive on the dirt track. Either way it’s not a smooth ride.
Great Zimbabwe Hotel consists of thatched buildings and reminds me of the Cott Inn at Dartington, Devon. Photos show HM Queen and D of E, Princess Di and Mandela as having been guests here. Instructed not to talk about politics as the hotel is a well known meeting place for Zanu PF party members. Which explains the large black BMW & Mercedes cars sitting in the car park.
Great Zimbabwe is an 11th century royal palace complex. Steep half hour climb to the top of Great Zimbabwe. Great views. One woman asks, “Do you feel spiritual up here?”. No. Feel hot, knackered and hungry. Is the reply. Steep climb down again. Great Enclosure is…..well….a great enclosure. Built of grey stones. Basically an 11m high dry stone wall.
Golden sunset enroute to Rutenga station passing impressive rock formations.