28 & 29-Dec-24 Lisbon & Faro, Portugal

Morning brew enroute whilst walking into Lisbon centre. A clean and nice looking coffee shop entices me in. Only when I’ve asked for a coffee do I realise I’ve actually gatecrashed a hotel’s breakfast room. But told it’s OK to have a coffee even though I’m not a guest. The usual brews to kick start my day. Go to hotel reception to pay. But told it’s OK. It’s free. Says beautiful young female receptionist. And says, “Merry Christmas!”. I’d like to think this was all down to Taurean charm. But she probably couldn’t be bothered with the hassle of ringing it through her accounts system.

Makes my day anyway. Little things.

Happy to meander the back streets on the edge of the city centre and discover a funicular. The Lavra funicular built in 1884. To be precise. You can’t beat a funicular, dear reader. One must always take a funicular. A trundle up the steep hill to more back street meanderings. To be greeted by a pug in a pushchair. Dear me. Look at photo below.

Area becomes progressively more dilapidated and ethnic as I walk downhill to the main square. The top part is quite upmarket but the lower part has derelict buildings. Washing hanging out of windows. Less Portuguese natives. More litter. More squalid. You know the score.

Greeted in the main square by half of Africa. Selling the usual tourist tat. Spread out on blankets on the floor. You know the score.

Soon realise that Lisbon is built on a massive natural amphitheatre. All routes leading downhill to the Triumphal Arch at the main plaza by the coast.

Fortunately a lift takes you to the top of the Triumpal Arch. Built in the 1800s to celebrate the rebirth of the city after the 1755 earthquake. Amazing views of the whole of Lisbon from the top. Beautifully set against a bright blue sky. Quite a panorama.

Hotel is at the top of said amphitheatre so an easy walk down. Am now at sea level. What goes down must go up. Bit of a slog dear reader.

Had passed on the opportunity to gain some height at the St Justa elevator. Very long queues of tourists at the base. Don’t do queues. Don’t do tourists. So a plodding perambulation up more side streets. Going uphill. Very slowly. Jeez there are some steep hills in Lisbon. But find myself at the top of the St Justa elevator. Having walked a considerable distance uphill. Unsurprisingly there is no queue of tourists at the top so descend just to say I’ve been in it. Originally built in the early 1900s and steam powered. But was converted to electric power by the British in 1907. Constructed of iron and 45m high with two lift cabins and a walkway and observation platform to connect to the high level neighbourhood.

Neighbourhoods of Lisbon remind me of Buenos Aires. Has that old world charm about it.

After a lot of walking downhill and uphill all day. Am glad to have a sit down the following day. On the train to Faro. Having already sampled a sandwich from Portuguese Railways opt to buy something better in a proper café before boarding. There’s an assortment of fresh baguettes with fillings. Ask for a cheese baguette. But told they don’t have cheese. I’ll have a cheese and ham baguette then. Please. As I can see that is pre-prepared in the display case next to where both the cashier and I are standing. It’s in plain sight.

She says that don’t have any cheese and ham baguettes. Tell her they do. And point to Exhibit A. A cheese and ham baguette. Right next to us in the display case. She moves to look. And sees the cheese and ham baguette. As I do. Pointing. But no. Am told that’s not a cheese and ham baguette.

It’s a brie and ham baguette.

Oh for God’s sake.

Give me strength.

Eventually get what I want.

Train is old. Slow going. Stops every few minutes in the Lisbon area. Then every town it passes through. Toilets are absolutely disgusting.

3hrs 40mins later. Arrive Faro. And a very short walk to Hotel Faro (https://www.hotelfaro.pt/en/) for an overnight stop. And close to the bus station for tomorrow morning’s departure.

It being Sundy afternoon most places are now shut.

Not sure I’d rush back to Faro, dear reader.