14-16-Feb-25 Podgorica, Montenegro

A one hour flight from Vienna to Podgorica. Capital of Montenegro. In the former Yugoslavia. On the Adriatic. Only one hour. But what a difference. Warm for a start. Departing a capital city dripping in architectural splendour. To arrive in a storm. Which exacerbates the greyness and dullness of the Soviet communist style architecture. Chucking it down with rain.

Airport is about as big as school sports hall. You won’t get lost. Taxi driver speaks English and don’t feel as though I’m being ripped off. For the short journey to the Hilton Hotel (https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/tgdpmhi-hilton-podgorica-crna-gora/). You will recall, dear reader, that I once worked on a hotel project in Vienna. My colleague at the time later went to work for Hilton. And was the project manager for this Podgorica Hilton a few years ago. So will be doing some snagging!

A quick walk about the block to stretch legs in between rain showers. There’s a nice vibe here. Everyone friendly. Everyone I interact with speaks English. Feels safe. Somewhat ramshackle Soviet looking buildings in most parts. But then there’s the new developments adjacent.

Wake to a bright blue sky and sun. Being on the Executive Floor, enjoy my morning brew in the top floor Exec Lounge with magnificent views of Podgorica and the surrounding snow capped mountains. Ah yes. This view will do for a brew.

Walking to the river discover a nice little bookshop in an old Turkish bath. Located directly beneath a bridge. Friendly owner shows me the building and takes me to a back room which was the old bath house. She has her friends popping in for a glass of wine. All very civilised, dear reader.

Entering the local market hall. Am reminded how bad smoking inside was. Everyone is puffing away. Disgusting habit. Disgusting smell. EU smoking laws not applicable here obviously. You forget what it was like all those years ago. Remember when I first started flying long haul on business in the mid 1990s. People were smoking on the aircraft. Jeez. You do forget how bad it was.

Plenty of colourful fresh produce for sale. Along with the general tat. If you ever wanted a radio cassette player for a 1980s car. Then look no further. Podgorica market has them. Along with other assorted accessories.

Meander the streets of the old town. A mosque a reminder of the Ottoman Empire. Which captured the city in 1474. Another Ottoman landmark is the well preserved Clock Tower. Built in 1667 and survived bombing in WW2.

Petrovic Castle is also identified as a highlight of Podgorica. Next to the US Embassy. A rather large affair. And one which has history boards on the security fence. Which require reading. And then conscious I’m being watched by security. Men with rifles. Ready to pounce. Moving swiftly on.

Castle is adjacent the embassy. But somewhat disappointing. It’s shut. For winter. Built in 1889. It’s not really a castle. It’s like saying Nottingham Castle. Which is more Georgian mansion. You will no doubt remember, dear reader, the Kevin Costner ‘Robin Hood’ film. The opening credits show a large forest with a proper castle in the middle. A title pops up which says ‘Nottingham Castle’. There was much laughter in the cinema in Nottingham when we read that. For it is nothing like a castle at all. Ditto Petrovic Castle.

Blue skies and sun continue the following day. My morning view for a brew is rather good, dear reader. Realise that the snow capped mountains to the south east are actually the border with Albania. Niece 1 is rather chuffed that she’s been to a country that I haven’t visited. She being in Albania last Autumn on a Young Farmers’ trip.

Plenty of people milling around on this sunny Sunday. Quite a few visiting the new Serbian Orthodox Cathedral. Built in 1993 with a colourful and warm interior. If you like gold leaf. You’ll like these orthodox cathedrals. Liberally used.

Wasn’t quite sure what to expect of Podgorica. Have been continually surprised by the quality of restaurants. Clean. Modern. Excellent food. One of the best Indian and Chinese meals I’ve had too.

And also discovered Montenegrin wine.

Quite taken with Podgorica.

Surprised.