NK 4. Spring in the Summer Palace

Tuesday, 11 April 2017

Beijing, China

Receptionist recommends the Summer Palace in the north west of the city. Fortunately able to navigate the metro system with ease as the signs and announcements are also in English. Alight at Beigongmen station for the short walk to the Summer Palace entrance. In need of a pit stop try and enter the luxurious Aman Hotel which looks like an ideal, and clean, spot for pees and teas. They’re not wanting this scruffy tourist in walking boots and open collared shirt in their establishment and am kicked out of the main hotel and ushered around the corner to their café out of the way. They clearly wish to maintain standards in this hotel.

But every cloud has a silver lining and it’s a delightful spot by a large fish pond to have a drink. So nice that I decide to stay a while for an early lunch. An elderly fisherman is throwing bread into the pond to entice the fish with the aim of catching one in his net at the end of a pole, about 12ft long. The fish aren’t biting and he ambles and shuffles to the other side to try there. This time the fish surface and he takes his long pole and stands poised at the water’s edge ready to pounce but keeps missing. If it were me, I’d place the net in the water and then slowly let the fish swim into it. After quite a while, he manages to catch four fish and wonder if they’ll be on the hotel’s restaurant menu tonight.

There’s an air of calmness in the gardens as I have a relaxing lunch soaking up the sun on this bright blue sky day and it’s a bit of a wrench to tear myself away and enter the 200 hectares of park and palaces complex that form the Summer Palace around a large lake. Exceptionally busy with Chinese tourists and once again I stick out like a sore thumb. After visiting the colourful and ornate 3 level Grand Theatre, it’s the covered walkway which runs for 750m from theatre to the main palace.

As I walk through the walkway I’m towering over everybody and can hear lots of hellos from the girls as they walk past giggling at the giant.

Something I’ve gotten used to.

Sniff.

Halfway along the walkway is a pagoda high up on a hill which requires investigation. More huffing and puffing from the Englishman as I climb the steep steps. What is it with these ancient Chinese and steep steps?! Once at the pagoda, thinking I’ve made it to the top realise I’m only half way up. More huffing and puffing to the summit but a cracking view from the top. Not a cloud in the sky, no smog, haze or anything. A beautiful spring day.

Returning to lake level discover a large marble boat in the water. Obviously not floating. It’s a serene sail under ornate stone bridges on a boat that floats to the quirky Szuzhou Street. Built in the 18^th century as a place where Emperors and guests could feel as if they were strolling a commercial street.

But without the riff raff.

The path is about 2ft wide with shops on one side and a 5ft vertical drop to the water below on the other with no barriers or anything to prevent you falling if you trip over. Very picturesque but watch my step. Late afternoon as I leave this peaceful and very enjoyable park. A good recommendation by the receptionist.

Facetime a very old friend (as in longevity not age…ahem…you know who you are) who is just waking up in the UK. Clearly still in a state of torpor she doesn’t realise I’m in Beijing despite being told I was going just a few weeks ago over dinner. Early retirement clearly taking its toll on her memory…

She’ll be reading this now and wondering ‘Does he mean me?’

Yes.