1-Sept-24 Gjoa Haven
Downloaded Michael Palin’s Erebus book late last night then realised sailing through the area between where HMS Erebus and HMS Terror were discovered. HMS Erebus actually discovered 10 years ago tomorrow on 2-Sept-14. Our resident archaeologist was part of the team involved with Parks Canada and tells us that they have been diving on HMS Terror the past few days as part of the research process. HMS Erebus and HMS Terror were only discovered by talking with the local Inuit. HMS Terror was found near the Inuit village of Umiaqtalik. Which means, ‘there is a boat there’. Bit of a giveaway. Especially as the top of the mast could be seen at low tide.
Quick lecture before landing on shore. Differences between the Arctic and Antarctic.
Arctic is a polar sea surrounded by land. Antarctica is a polar continent surrounded by sea.
Arctic ice is oceanic and the sea ice protects the relatively warmer sea beneath which provides a more moderated climate. It freezes then melts. Antarctic ice is pretty constant throughout the year.
Arctic is at sea level. Antarctica is generally about 7,500ft altitude and is a desert with minimal precipitation.
Average temperatures in the Arctic. Minus 40C winter. 0C summer. Average temperatures in the Antarctic. Minus 60C winter. Minus 28C summer.
Sea currents play a vital part in the climate. Arctic ice influenced by the Gulf Stream. Which is why the eastern side of Greenland and heading further north is less icy than the western side. Antarctica is governed by the Antarctic Circumpolar Currents. Fairly constant current flowing eastwards around the south pole. And the reason why the Drake Passage never freezes.
Polar bears in the Arctic. Penguins in Antarctica. Winged flightless birds such as penguins thrive in Antarctica as there is no land predator. Puffins in the north are the parallel equivalent but developed flight to evade land predators.
The stuff you learn on this blog.
Four hours shore excursion to Gjoa Haven (pronounced by the Brits onboard as Joe Haven). Approaching, it’s clear that this is the same old, same old Inuit settlement.
Roald Amundsen landed here in 1903 on his North West Passage expedition. He stayed for two years. Things have clearly changed since then as wouldn’t want to be holed up here for two years. Couple of hours and job done. And that’s the view from the deck. Before even setting foot on land.
During his two years, Amundsen learnt from the Inuit. This knowledge of living in polar regions propelled him to winning the race to the South Pole. Beating RF Scott by five weeks on 14-Dec-1911.
Offered the usual tour by locals. Sod that. It’ll be another. This is the police station. The shop. The museum. The shop. Etc. Etc.
Go it alone. Waddling along in my thermal wellies. Which are too big. Size smaller is too small.
Not sure how to describe Gjoa Haven. Think living in the Scrapheap Challenge set. With added detritus. Housing wouldn’t look out of place in a 1990s Center Parcs. Or Davy Crockett’s Ranch at Euro Disney. Pre-fab chalet type. You get my drift.
Oil tanks stand on metal frames at high level. Gravity feeding the boiler. Waste water goes to a tank. To be removed by tanker.
Unlike Ulukhaktuk and Cambridge Bay there appears to be more litter. Not the usual scrap used for spares. General litter. Paper. Plastic. It’s everywhere. The Cotswolds it isn’t.
Whole town seems to be in the middle of a building site. Plenty of construction materials lying around. Waiting to be constructed at some point.
Having waddled for 40 minutes. Return to ship. For. A. Lunch. B. Change of footwear.
But. There’s a queue for the Zodiacs. Inuits are being transferred to the ship for a ‘community visit’. Part of the deal I suppose. We let you land. You let us come on board for a nosey. So. There I am. On a Zodiac. With a mix of the old, teenagers and Mums with babes in arm. It’s like crossing the English channel.
If you get my drift.
Personal hiking boots are allowed. Provided I stand in the disinfectant tray on the way out. Deal.
Return to shore after lunch. With a spring in my step. Can now stride out in comfortable, fit like a glove, boots.
Local museum has a very small display on the Erebus and a replica of the ship’s bell. Along with quite a clear sonar image of the wreck only 11m below the surface. Plus a polystyrene replica of an igloo. With a sign. That says. Do. Not. Enter.
Museum shop assumes I want to pay $65 for a small beaded pair of earrings. I don’t. Because it’s the sort of thing I could knock up in two minutes with a bead kit from Hobbycraft. Well. OK. Might need guidance from my 12 year old goddaughter.
Everything is stupidly expensive. Made by Inuit innit.
Notwithstanding additional supply costs to reach Gjoa Haven.
Approaching two o’clock so hot foot it over to the Community Sports Hall. Fish or caribou soup on offer. With caribou flakes. Hall full of about 250 people. Primarily passengers plus people performing for passengers. Treated to square dancing by children. With live band.
Then.
Throat singing.
One thing we should definitely not appropriate.
Deary me. Quite alarming. And disturbing.
Then.
Inuit lad does ‘touch the seal fur pouch dangling on a string at high level with hand’ thing. Balancing body on one hand he then touches seal fur pouch. At the very extreme of his reach with other hand. Round of applause.
Then.
Inuit lad does ‘touch the seal fur pouch dangling on a string at high level with foot’ thing. Now strung up much higher. And kicks seal fur pouch from standing still. Impressive kick. Round of applause.
Then.
Inuit lad does ‘touch the seal fur pouch dangling on a string at high level with feet constrained at knees by belt also around neck’ thing. Trouser belt through legs to knees. Belt then placed over neck. Lifts self up on two hands and tries to swing legs to touch seal fur pouch. But it’s just a bit too high. After many attempts and being applauded by the assembled masses he gives up and potters off. With a slightly embarrassed demeanour. No need lad. None of us could have got belt over knees and neck!
Then.
Live music from the local Inuit band. Igloo and The Eskimos. No. Not really. Made that bit up. For fun. But has a ring to it.
Come and dance on the dance floor. They said. Dance like there’s no one watching. They said. Except. There are. 250 or so people.
So off I go.
Back to boat.
Mentally building a Scrapheap Challenge contraption with all the debris lying around.
You’ll make your own mind up, dear reader, when you see the photos and videos.
Like John Simpson on the BBC. I just report what I see.
No doubt be harpooned if someone finds me.
