Aqaba, Jordan
13 August 2013
First conversation of the day with a native. 12 year old postcard seller, “Where you from?”. England. “Luvly jubbly”, he replies. Walk down the path to the entrance of Petra’s Siq. Accosted by every single tout with a horse, “You wanna horse?”. No. If I want a horse I’d have asked for one by now. Pass rock formations that could be the home of the Flintstones. Coolish breeze as we enter the Siq but it’s only 0800hrs and the temperature will increase. Siq is as stunning as I remember. 50 something European man is trailing us. He’s holding hands with his teenage Asian rent boy. Not a pretty sight.
The showstopper though is glimpsing the Treasury for the first time between the walls of the Siq. At this time in the morning though, only the top half is drenched in sunlight making photos difficult with the contrast. Change in animal now. It’s “You wanna donkey?”. Horses stop at the Siq. Donkeys take over. Flea ridden, manky things. Every single time a donkey rider passes, “You wanna donkey?”, No. Have an aversion to donkeys ever since my school teacher volunteered me to represent 1JSe class at the school Donkey Derby in 1982 (those were the days). We’re all on the start line raring to go. Everybody gallops off apart from my donkey. It takes a quick start then suddenly stops dead. It’s neck reaching down to chew on the playing field grass. My momentum carries me forward and I slide down its neck head first. Promptly deposited in a heap on the floor. Not ridden a donkey since. These donkeys here are the Skegness cast offs. You can imagine the state they’re in. Petra’s been modernised since I last came. Gone are the manky Bedouin tent eateries and latrines. Now there are clean and wholseome restaurants and public toilets that are far cleaner than most public toilets in the UK – not that I frequent public toilets you understand. Not particularly keen on climbing 800 steps for 2-3hrs in the heat or wanting a flea ridden donkey ride, so give the Monastery a miss. Retreat back to the Treasury and the sun is now illuminating the entire facade for that Kodak moment. Surprised by the number of tourists now. Earlier they’d been few and far between but now the coach loads are arriving from Amman & Aqaba. Not seen this many tourists since Istanbul which seems an age away. On the return, see the 12 year old postcard seller so jokingly say to him, “Luvly jubly”, to which he instantly retorts, “Cheap as chips”. He’s been watching too much TV that lad! Sedate drive (compared to yesterday) to Aqaba along the Kings Highway via Taybe. Simply stunning mountain scenery but too hazy for any good photos. Nearing Aqaba we’re stopped at a customs checkpoint (bit like entering California) with a machine gun mounted on top of the Toyota Hilux. Arrive Aqaba. It’s a Red Sea resort. Eilat in Israel is a couple of miles away. Egypt a couple of miles further on from that. It’s all that close. They’re all having their fill of Red Sea resorts. Receive an email from the FCO Travel Advice line for Israel and Palestine. It states, “On 13 August [today] a rocket was intercepted by an Iron Dome anti-missile battery over Eilat.” That’ll be the Eilat a couple of miles away. That’ll be the Eilat I can see if I poke my head out of bedroom window. Bloody hell.