Saturday, 29 May 2010
Yokohama, Japan
Best breakfast since leaving home. Twinings English Breakfast Tea. And. Wait for it. Marmite on hot buttered toast. Oh yes. Al and I discovered our mutual love of Marmite whilst working in Jordan. A 500g tub of the stuff was imported on a trip back from the UK once. The Jordanian waiters in the hotel we were staying at (a zero star fleapit up near the Syrian border and the Golan Heights) couldn’t quite work out why the two Brits were lathering their toast in this black sticky smelly stuff.
Tea continues to be the theme for the day as we arrive at Sankeien Gardens. A collection of wooden buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries set around a lake with ornamental gardens. An observation point in the gardens was the site of another house but this was demolished in the 1923 earthquake. In its day, the view would have been superb looking out over the bay and coastline. Today’s view, however, is blighted by a massive oil and gas terminal and storage tanks. Azalea bonsai trees are on display as we head down to a wooden hall where a tea ceremony awaits.
A lot of faff for a brew I have to say. All very calm and serene, two young ladies wearing traditional costume go through the rigmarole of blessing the teapot, boiling the water, pouring the water, adding some green tea, stirring, bowing, and presenting a cup of green drudge served with very sweet almond tasting cubes of cake. Not exactly petite both of us, we’re perched on a small bench. It bows in the middle because of the weight.
Like a scene from Last of the Summer Wine as the two middle aged Englishmen huff and puff up a steep road to the Bluff. This is where the Europeans settled at the turn of the last century with matching architecture of European style houses. Which are open to visitors as museums. The only problem being that you have to walk about in your socks to protect the wooden floors. Very Art Deco in style and yet another cup of tea. Little old lady waitress keeps bowing every time she gives us the cups and teapots etc. Like being served by a nodding donkey.
Walking along the ridge to the cemetery, pass a young man in a suit and tie sitting on a stool on the pavement holding a wooden advertising placard pointing to something down a side road. Briefcase at his side. Wonder what he tells his mates he does for a living. Quite a bizarre scene.
In the area is the Foreign Cemetery. Japan now has a law that you must be cremated. But not way back when. Quite interesting and reminds me of the cemetery I visited in Moscow. Large ornate headstones. The winner of the ‘Best Headstone Award’ goes to Frank Joseph Burke. Assume to be a thief and safecracker. Headstone shows an image of a safe inscribed with the words, ‘They said it couldn’t be done. But I took it with me anyway.” My favourite though is Spike Milligan’s, ‘I told you I was ill’ (obviously not in this cemetery).
As I’ve found elsewhere in South Korea and Japan, there’s a nice civilised and relaxed feel to the place as we wander the back streets. And then we hit Chinatown. An explosion of chatter and colour. It’s another world compared to the European area we’ve just walked from. Real buzz with bright lights and colourful displays. Plenty of food stalls and try the local delicacy. A steamed dumpling about the size of a tennis ball filled with meat. Very tasty.
The new cruise ship terminal is an impressive structure. Quite low lying with a grassed roof and weathered timber. Once inside it’s like walking under a ship in dry dock as the ceilings are shaped like a hull.
Along the shoreline are the Red Brick Warehouses. Built by the British in the early 1900s, the steelwork is manufactured by Dornan in Newcastle upon Tyne, they included Japan’s first luggage elevator and sprinkler system. Originally used for the developing Yokohama port they’re now converted to lots of shops, restaurants and craft type studios.
After all that walking am assured there’s a cold beer waiting at the top of the Landmark Tower. Japan’s tallest building. Notable for its circular escalator. Not been on a circular escalator before. It bends around in a curve. One has to have a play. Pretty funky bit of kit. Having played on the circular escalator a tad longer than a man of my age should, taken to the top of the tower in a 45km/hr lift. One of the world’s fastest. Amazing views of Yokohama and Tokyo beyond from 250m up as we glug away at a couple of cold beers resting our weary legs. As I remark to Al, ‘This is one of your better ideas!’
Dinner ensues. And more beer. And nightcaps back at the apartment.
Whisky and sake.
More whisky.
More sake.
Until the early hours.
Laughing the hours away.
