RTW 3. A mother’s memory

Wednesday, 5 May 2010

Braunschweig, Germany

Early departure to Koln on the Thalys train passing through Aachen. Have sentimental attachments to Koln and Aachen. Koln was the first place I worked as I moved to Germany in 1997. Aachen was where the research centre project I worked on was being built. Was only meant to be in Germany for a year. Loved it so much spent three years there. Forget France and Spain, dear reader. Give Germany a go for your next holiday. You’ll be surprised how much you enjoy it. And how friendly the people are. And most speak English.

Family history has also been traced and there’s a school of thought that a distant relation possibly came from Koln. So could be part German.

It would explain everything.

Koln’s domineering Gothic Cathedral is always magnificent and one of my favourite cathedrals. Very imposing and it’s a 533 step climb to the top of the tower. Quite frankly, I’m not getting any younger, dear reader, and may have had to stop for a breather. Once or twice. Stunning views with a flat as a pancake landscape reminds you you’re on the great North European Plain. Won’t see hills now until the Urals.

Back on the German ICE (Inter City Express) train to Braunschweig. The ICE trains are superb. The best in Europe. And ultra modern. Unlike the Wuppertal Schwebebahn we pass as we zoom by the city of Wuppertal. An 1898 monorail where the ‘train’ suspends from the rail. See video below. Used to travel Braunschweig-Koln and back by ICE each week for project meetings and always wanted to stop off in Wuppertal to travel on its monorail. But never did. Built over the river it follows its path for 13km.

Greeted at Braunschweig station by Miss Braunschweig. Lived in Braunschweig for three years between 1997 and 2000. We’ve been firm friends ever since. We’re practically twins. Born 25hrs apart. Dinner takes an interesting turn when she proclaims, “I’m in ze mood for telling you things!” Crikey. Well, dear reader, I find out stuff I never knew. But that’s for diary, dear reader. Not blog.

Being near the old West German/East German border at Helmstedt, Braunschweig was the first town the East Germans came to when the wall came down. Miss Braunschweig remembers the day they came. The whole town was full of Trabants polluting the city with their exhaust fumes belching out. The West German government were handing out 100 Deutsche Mark notes and bananas. Miss Braunschweig celebrated New Year’s Eve that year actually on the Berlin Wall near the Brandenburg Gate. So many people were celebrating and she recounts that when she jumped down to the east side of the wall she suddenly had this fear that the border would be locked again and she’d be captured in the east.

Meet her Mum when we get back who just happens to be watching a film called ‘Dresden’. Which gets us into conversation about World War 2 and her memories of the time.

Mum was born in 1936 and so a small girl during the war. She vividly remembers the night that 90% of Braunschweig was bombed by the British RAF. It was terrible. The horrific noise of the air raid sirens. The bombs screaming down. The night sky ablaze with fire. They lived in a village on the outskirts so, thankfully, weren’t in the direct line of bombardment but still had to hide in the air raid shelter. Mum’s father owned a factory making hats, shirts and coats and as such had to become a member of the Nazi Party. No choice in the matter. At the end of the war they were living in a large house in the best residential area of Braunschweig. One day the American Army knocked on the door at 1000hrs and told them to vacate their home by 1800hrs that day so the Americans could use the large house for their own purposes. The family had to comply. Fortunately the Americans came knocking and not the Russians. Mum’s father had said that if the Russians got close he would kill all his family rather than let the Russians loose on them as the Russians had a reputation for rape, torture and murder.

Mum’s father always carried cyanide on him just in case it came to that.

Just think about that for a moment, dear reader.

The family vacated the family home that day with most of their possessions and found somewhere else to live.

They’d had eight hours.

However, Mum had forgotten one of her dolls so went back to the house, on her own, the next day to see if she could get it. An American soldier saw her outside the house and she explained what had happened. American soldier lifted her over the barbed wire fence so she could go inside the house to retrieve her doll.

A few months later the British were in town (Bergen-Belsen concentration camp not being too far away) and one British soldier had some chocolate to hand out to the local children. Something they never had through the war, along with bananas. Mum looked at the soldier all sorrowful and head bowed. So he gave her extra chocolate.

Mum is giggling as she recalls this particular memory.

Lest we forget.