Thursday, 3 June 2010
Hornby Island, British Columbia, Canada
Regular readers of the blog, and those that know me, will know that I don’t do mornings. So you can imagine the grumpy ogre that has to wake up at 0415hrs to catch the ferry to Hornby Island.
There is only one 4.15 in my day, dear reader. And yes, you guessed it. This. Isn’t. It.
Have only had about 6hrs sleep in the past 48hrs. As I said. Grumpy. Little. Ogre.
Fresh overcast morning as we zoom through the eerily quiet streets of downtown Vancouver. Sun rises over the city as we drive through Stanley Park and over the Lions Gate Bridge. Mountains are shrouded in mist on the mainland but as we arrive at Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal can see the snow capped mountains on Vancouver Island. Our first destination. Spot of island hopping today. Three islands. Arriving at Nanaimo on Vancouver Island it’s about an hour’s drive north up the coast road to Fanny Bay. And another ferry to Denman Island. There’s a lot of racing today. Our early start and ferry times have been coordinated so as to get three ferries in quick succession.
Arrive at Fanny Bay with minutes to spare before the ferry departs. I have to nip into the Fanny Bay Oyster Shop to buy some prawns and candied smoked salmon with maple syrup (actually quite nice) for the weekend.
Woman behind the counter starts asking awkward questions like, “How much do you want?”.
Erm.
Shrug my shoulders not knowing to which she replies with, “Ah ha, someone’s obviously been given a shopping list!”
Yep.
Whilst I’m faffing with this, Miss Vancouver is sorting ferry tickets at the ferry terminal a short distance away. Shop assistant realises I’m on the ferry that is literally about to leave so suddenly goes into overdrive and packs up my order pronto.
Miss Vancouver has now driven on to the ferry which is clearly now waiting for me to jump on. Have to run, dear reader. Don’t do running. It’s bad for you. Pass the ferry ticket office and the woman shouts, “She’s paid for you!”. Jolly good.
Jump on the ferry and gates are closed behind me. It’s that tight. I’m delaying them.
Only a ten minute crossing to Denman Island. Quick drive across Denman Island. Which takes all of ten minutes. To the next ferry. To Hornby Island.
After all that racing about, discover that the next ferry to Hornby is a ‘Dangerous Cargo’ crossing and so no other vehicles apart from the propane gas lorries. Sod it. Now have to wait over an hour. After all that rushing. On Denman Island. Those of you that know Denman Island will know that there’s not much to do. Apart from drive around it.
Ferry finally floats off to Hornby.
And to Miss Vancouver’s humble abode. A set of cabins. A few yards back from the beach. Amazing views out to sea. Oh wow.
Life on Hornby has that slow, relaxed feel that everyone is in a permanent state of being on holiday. Or retired. Apparently, during the Vietnam War lots of Americans came here to escape the draft. And have stayed ever since. Slight hippyish feel to the place. Just don’t mention the drugs.
The petrol station is called a ‘gas bar’. Old bloke with long grey ponytail is filling up his 1987 Camino. It’s that sort of place.
Driving along see a young girl hitchhiking. Stop to give her a lift. It’s that sort of place.
Local store sells all sorts. Marmite. HP Sauce. Patak’s Curry Sauce. Elderflower cordial. It’s that sort of place.
Pass roadside signs advertising various arts and crafts for sale in people’s homes. Glassware. Jewellery. Paintings. It’s that sort of place.
In need of a walk, drive to the other side of the island to Helliwell National Park. Turning right at The Big Tree Junction. So called as it has a big tall tree stuck in the middle of the road. It’s that sort of place.
Meant to be a quarter mile walk to the headland on a 3 mile circular route through dense woodland and open headland.
Path promptly peters out. Seems like we have missed the main trail. It’s OK though. Miss Vancouver knows the way. Knows a shortcut back to the shoreline.
Ahem.
Now in dense woodland come across a house set amongst the woods. Everything is made of driftwood. Outdoor shower. Driftwood. Outdoor toilet. Driftwood. Actually quite a palatial toilet. Proper toilet seat. Paper. Lime. Sawdust. Outdoor dining table. Driftwood. It’s that sort of place.
Assured that the trail is just through what is now dense jungle type woodland, follow Miss Vancouver. Deeper and deeper into the forest. After five minutes it’s clear that we’re not going to pick up the trail like this so retrace our steps. It’s at this point that we realise how easy it is to get lost in such conditions. One tree looks exactly like the other.
And then it rains.
Not spitting rain.
Full on hard rain.
Good job we were both in the Scouts, Guides and D of E. Miss Vancouver being awarded Gold D of E by HRH D of E no less. We are prepared, dear reader.
Bald eagles. Tick. Woodpecker. Tick.
Finally find the footpath.
After all that exertion it’s back to the cabins.
Champagne and canapes on the deck terrace. Overlooking Denman Island, the Strait of Georgia and the snow capped mountains of Vancouver Island.
One word.
Awesome.
Fillet steaks fry on the heaviest skillet known to man on the open fire. Made from driftwood. Miss Vancouver does everything else. Miss Vancouver is one of the few women I know who knows how to properly cook and entertain. Am being treated like a King. It’s all rather marvellous. Bottle of Mexican wine is superb.
Simply idyllic sitting with this view. Eagles soaring overhead. Herons fishing off the rocks in front of us. Listening to the tide lapping on the shore. Fire crackling ahead of us as we, quite frankly, watch one of the most simply stunning sunsets sinking over the scenery. Have never witnessed a sunset like it.
Post prandial stroll along the beach. Pure silence. Apart from nature. Twilight now. Sensational views.
God. This is awesome.
Miss Vancouver continues to excel in the wining and dining department when I’m offered a 35 year old single malt.
Stars come out to play and twinkle light years away.
Feels like we’re light years away from civilisation.
Both agree that we are incredibly lucky in life.
This is just awesome.
