A mosaic factory on the outskirts trains disabled people in the art of mosaics. The “positive” side is placed face down so you only see the negative side whilst work in progress. Then filled with cement and turned the right way up to show the smooth, finished article.
Mt Nebo is a short drive away. It’s where Moses ascended to view the Promised Land.
Sadly for him, if he came on a day like today he’d only see a lot of haze. Can just make out the Dead Sea but are told that on a good day Jerusalem can be seen. It’s a stunning view nevertheless.
Race down the mountainside along twisting roads. Driver has to takes us to Petra then return to Amman. He’s clearly not wantng to be late back. It must be a 4,000ft drop as the Dead Sea is about 1,400ft BELOW sea level. It’s the lowest land based point on earth. Stopped at a checkpoint near the Israeli/Palestine border but as we’re British/South African we don’t pose a security threat so pass by the tank and wave to the bored looking soldiers – who wave back. It’s the highlight of their day. Driver explains that if we’d been female and good looking then we would have been stopped just so the soldiers could have a look. We’re neither.
Race along the Dead Sea highway at 80-100mph.
Hardly any traffic so it’s minimal risk. Stop at a view point and told the rock pillar above is Lot’s wife who was turned into a pillar of salt. Not convinced by this but at least we have a leg stretch and we’re not flying at Mach 1 for a few minutes. It’s now 40C but as it’s dry air and not humid it’s bearable. This morning in Madaba it was 30C and it felt chilly. That’s acclimatisation for you. Reminds me of working in the tropics of Brasil where it got to the stage to thinking of putting on jumpers at night because it felt chilly….until we realised it was still 25C and what a bunch of wusses we were being.
Turn off the Dead Sea highway to climb up into the mountains again. Climb. And climb. And climb. For a good hour as we ascend what must be 4,000ft. Stop at a cafe some way up for superb, but hazy, views across the valley and into Israel/Palestine. Driver refuses to say the word Israel and always refers to it as Palestine.
Soon racing at breakneck speed across the plateau before dropping down to Petra. It’s as though we’ve been driving a Grand Prix and thankful to arrive in one piece.
Petra is much more developed now and not how I remember it. The park entrance is a brand new stone building rather than the wooden shack and smelly stables that used to pervade the welcome to Petra park.
Much needed beer on the rooftop bar and a pretty decent glass of Jordanian wine watching the red hues of sunset colour Petra town as the muezzin bounces around the valley from minaret to minaret. The lights of houses forming like fireflies swarming the hillside whilst the crescent moon shines bright like a diamond in the sky.
It’s all rather pleasant up here……but a bit chilly…..even at 30C.
My car had better not look like that!
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Madaba mosaic
Street seller
