White Masai

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Kisaki, Morogoro Region, Tanzania

5 September 2013

Stationary in the station overnight at Kisaki. As we prepare to depart the station can hear screams from a nearby building. Told it’s a local man being beaten for stealing. Walk through the village to the local junior school to meet teachers and pupils. Introductory talk by the Deputy Principal before meeting the teachers who all speak good English. Pupils wearing blue and white uniforms in various states of cleanliness. A class give a rendition of the National Anthem. Donations of cash, pens, paper etc are gratefully received. We’re free to walk around and say hello. Walk into one classroom and all the pupils stand as I enter. Like I used to when I was at school. Do they still do that these days?

Hey teachers

 

Hey teachers

It’s apparent that the white giant standing before them is slightly intimidating and so jokingly stride into the centre of the classroom at full height rumbling “Grrrr..rrrrr….rrrrrr” which causes minor panic amongst the young teens. They fight to get out of the way partially scared, partially laughing, tripping over each other. Raise my arms slightly pretending to be a monster as I did with my nieces when they were young. This sends the whole class running about the room trying to escape. They know it’s for laughs and are enjoying it…..as are my fellow travellers who are laughing in the corner.

The “bell” rings for break time – it’s someone banging a metal wheel. Chaos ensues as all the pupils escape from the gloom of their classrooms with dirt floors and basic wooden seats for the lucky few. There’s a donation of a blow up beach ball emblazoned with the Canadian flag. Hundreds of children are trampling over each other in a massive scrum trying to reach the ball. It won’t last long at that rate. Continue doing my great white monster impression in the playground which scatters children.

Class dismissed

Class dismissed

 

It’s a great game. They all want their photo taking so they can see the image on the camera screen. They’re all trying to push each other out of the way to get in the shot. Great fun. Also worth noting that some of the younger ones may never have seen a white person before.

Enter the nearby Masai village and told it’s the real McCoy and not for tourists. Yet we find tourists already there and the Masai women have laid out the souvenirs in readiness for our arrival. The Masai warriors see me and tell guide that I am a “White Masai” on account of my height. A chopped up goat is on the grass and part of it is roasting on the wood fire. The essential kit for the modern Masai warrior includes carrying a stick, a knife and a mobile phone. They’re intrigued by us as we are by them and they take delight in taking photos of us on their camera phones.

Inside a Masai home, which is a temporary affair, are bedrooms and a kitchen area

Water for beak time

Water for beak time

 

The beds are made of sticks and the bedsheets are cow skins. A small fire in the corner of one room is the kitchen.

Treated to a traditional Masai warrior song and dance routine which involves a lot of warbling and jumping up and down. Somewhat ruined by them finishing off with “In the jungle, the quiet jungle, the lion sleeps tonight…..awumba whey…..”. You know the rest and you’re singing it to yourself now aren’t you….??

Close to the rail station are some hot springs which the locals have just told us about. Near boiling point the water gurgles up and forms reddish crusty stone craters. Have to watch your step as the ground is boggy in places.

Have a few hours to kill before train departs so a walk through the village is required. Everyone friendly and happy and smiling and lots of “jambo”. Locals like their photo being taken but only if you show them the image on the camera screen which makes them squeal with laughter. It’s a great ice-breaker and most speak enough English to have a quick conversation with. The main road through the village is a dirt track with shops either side selling anything and everything. Mobile phone companies and Pepsi are the big advertisers here.

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